I was thinking of adding a chamber heater and a 24v light, but I don’t want to over task the OEM power supply. Any issues of replacing the existing 100w unit with a 200w unit?
Also, I know how to make the new 24v light work just like the OEM unit, but I’d like to configure the heater through the stock OS if possible. It seems like there’s a control for it, but it’s seemingly software disabled. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
The lights can be added without changing the power supply.
You will not be able to change firmware on the printer. I have run a 24v bento box with my lights, but the heater I used (and decided wasn’t needed) ran off main. Unless you absolutely need a heater, I wouldn’t bother.
I would suggest you run some prints with different materials before you start modding the printer.
It may not be in your case but I have seen a goodly number of previous non-Bambu printer owners that come in with a bunch pre-conceived notions of what needs to be modded. What most of those folks miss is they were modding to overcome the problems of low quality printers.
Just put those behind you and determine what the Bambu printer needs based on the Bambu printer, Not some under powered previous printer.
I heat the bed to 110°C 20 min before printing. With 23°C ambient, the chamber reaches 45-50 °C. On smooth PEI, It prints PC without problems. For demanding geometries, I have to add brim.
One Youtuber I saw recently has covered an X1C with a blanket to isolate it a bit better (leaving the back free) for improving layer adhesion of PPA-CF and reached 60°C that way.
I doubt that an active heating is the best solution for your adhesion problems.
Which plate do you use? Have you activated any fans?
How do you get your plate to 110 when 100 is the max? I keep all the fans off and tape off all seams to keep chamber temp up. Added a 10mm brim and the parts still pop off.
^ Printing ABS, bed 100 (max), no chamber heater, room temp around 18-20C
But my P1S is put inside an insulated enclosure (inheritance of old bed slinger setup that could do ABS comfortably)
Sorry, X1C, I forgot to look into the sub forum. But I can’t imagine that 100 vs 110 °C makes the difference.
And you waited for the inside to warm up? At which chamber temp do you start the print?
I don’t print PC often and I didn’t print very large parts yet. I think the biggest was 80x120 mm base size. Still certainly more than the size you mentioned.
I usually set the bed at 100 and the aux fan to 10% and let it run for about 20 minutes. With everything taped off it gets to around 120F, but not much higher than that.
I can imagine coming from ender or enders clone where 80% time was used to mod the printer. so 3d printer was a hobby not 3d printing …
I bough P1S so i can print not mod the printer.
You nailed that squarely.
The vast Amazon aftermarket parts ecosystem is testament to that. All the aftermarket hotends, nozzles, this doo-dad or that trinket to bolt onto, screw into your cheap 3d printer is proof of that.
Like… “If I do this mod, my printer will make beautiful prints” and somewhere along the way they lost sight of why they intitially bought the cheap printer.
I was in that crowd of parts buyers but really was frustrated at the near constant tweaking to coax a good print from my E3-Pro. Heard somebody on Reddit or Discord say (about Bambu Lab X1C) “They just print” and literally put my tools down, turned off the power to the Ender and bought a P1S. Was a little bumpy start but I have, in three months, printed quadruple what that Ender printed in 3 years.
Same here. I picked up an FLSUN SuperRacer and it printed alright, but had issues with calibration sequencing. Fiddled with it for a year and now have the P1S. I don’t want to change things at the core of this machine, but I do want more light and to figure out PC.