Hi,
I have tried to print a part several times using the MotherOfInvention settings, but the part ended separating from the bed all the times.
I used the Magigoo PP, and also used packaging PP tape (which worked well with the old printer).
I am using the high temperature plate (I don’t have the engineering one). The PP packaging tape detachs partially from the plant before than from the part
Before the definitive separation, the upper surface of the part lifts slightly causing the nozzle to contact it until there is a moment that the nozzle drags the part away.
The part is printed with a high level of infill, and the footprint is small. I am not using raft. Should I?
Just al little FYI, the backside of the High temp plate is an engineering plate.
I am using Fiberlogy PP black and judgig from the soft and flexible touch and feel of the material I would not use it in the AMS, since the risk of a jam and the hazzle to remove it is big. However PP is not hygroskopic so no problem having it outside the AMS.
Also I did not figure a supportmaterial yet that works the same temperatures and sticks to PP, so there is no urge to try it inside the AMS.
However if you try this pls let us know all details of your experience!
Hi all,
did anyone have actual success with FormFutura’s Centaur PP? I got my spool a couple of days ago and had to unclog the extruder already 4 or 5 times. The best I have achieved - 20 messy, stringy layers. Mostly, it stucks on 2nd or 3rd layer. Can anyone share a working profile, including speed, acceleration, cooling, and retraction?
Hello Mikhail_C,
I print with it all the time on my other printers. I had it working on the Bambu lab X1. I will see if I can get a profile done this week and get back to you.
Ok I was able to get this done hope this helps out with this filament type.
Thank you very much for sharing @3DTech. Meanwhile, I managed to make a working profile for the filament, but still I’m not happy about the quality. Will try your How To.
I can recommend try printing directly on regular sticky tape [PP], classic transparent, it’s great for adhesion, thanks a lot for the all tips here in the community! 
What printing speed are you running with PP?
I tried a sample of PP a few months back - what a nightmare…
Worked best using the TK99 plate with a hint of gluestick to it.
The bed temp I had to crank up big time but found out 100 degrees is the max 
Would like to go to around 120 but…
My biggest problem was the adhesion, not just on the bed.
Anything bigger than a test cube and the print started to struggle.
I concluded that the previous layer cooled down too much and reduced the print speed.
This gave a bit better layer adhesion but also a lot of ‘farts’ - the pressure changes in the hotend causing the filament to come out wonky.
Ok, then we do it like in the old days of trimmer line nylon from the hardware store…
I don’t know if it was the sample I got or PP filament in general - not using it much at all…
BUT: Getting the nozzle temp right with PP is about as hard as keeping the temp in the melting chamber even…
Go high enough to have the filament come out soft enough to provide good adhesion and you risk overcooking it when the printer slows down.
Go more on the lower end and you need a very low print speed, like under 40mm per second and forget about thick layers and combined infill.
Problem is that neither is acceptable.
The first means the nozzles blocks up the second means the print is still useless if something goes wrong.
I think we face two issues here:
- Our machines are not really made for such high temp filaments.
- PP does not want to stick to anything.
The first problem we can’t change, which means we can neither get the proper temps in our build chamber, nor a temperature for the build plate that lets us get away without adding some adhesive to the plate (at least for vital prints).
I think FR10 would work best as a build plate but the plate I have here is from my old printer a quite too small to fit.
TK99 seems to be basically the same stuff, just that it is formed with rounded edges and to fit our plates - you can get FR10 in 250 by 250 sheets though, which is close enough.
With the last metre of the sample left I abused my printing pen.
And of course I tried it on the failed sample prints…
Cold part - basically no adhesion at all, the PP peels right off.
Hair dryer on hot blowing over the part, after the part warmed up gave a slightly better adhesion but I could still rip the stuff off.
Using the heat gun from my SMD station at 140 degrees allowed for an acceptable bond, at around 160 degrees it turned into a solid bond.
Although my experiments are far from scientific I think it is the physical properties of the material that need to be considered for printing.
Like how the pen had no adhesion problems on parts I flame treated…
The previous layer has to get above this transition temperature where the PP turns ‘sticky’ again.
In our case it can only mean starting with really low print speeds and preferably EVEN speeds and extrusion volumes.
You know, like in the old days…
Summary, in case you still have PP to try:
Have all slowing down options disabled, same for the cooling options.
Set the plate temp to max and then WAIT…
Correct me if I am wrong but at some point the machine should find the chamber temp too hot and start the fan - that’s when the chamber is ready to print.
Use a very thin layer of the liquid glue stick or if you have a smooth plate try kapton tape.
Do a case mode print at a low speed of like 40mm per second to find the LOWEST extrusion temp that still gives you proper layer bonds.
Do it again to see at which temp the filament properties go down the drain.
At no point during a print should the melting chamber get to a higher temp than for the previous test.
If your second temp is 20 or more degrees above the first you should be fine.
To do a proper test print set the extrusion temp about 5 degrees above your low temp vase mode temp.
Start at 40mm per second and slowly work your way up to see if there is a higher but still save to use speed.
Try to avoid going so high that you require outer walls, overhangs or such to slow down.
I am printing parts in PP with my Ultimaker printer and I am getting good results. Parts with threads that fits together nicely. I am printing pretty slow 25mm/s and just started a new print at 50mm/s to see how that works out. I have 85°C bedtemp and 235°C nozzle temp.
I was curious to hear if the Bambu printer could manage printing PP at its “famous” really high speed, with good results.
What sort of bed surface do you use?
PEI?
PP like some other filaments just can’t be printed at fast speeds.
Take some filament and heat it with a heat gun.
You will see that it goes soft at a certain temp but that it takes an awful lot to get it as runny as PLA.
Means you not only need a quite high temp but also quite a bit of force if you want to get it through at high speeds.
Problem is that it takes a while to heat up and fast extrusion speeds or high extrusion volumes make this hard using these tiny hotends.
The faster you print the bigger the resulting pressure differences in the melting chamber and the higher their frequency will be.
That has a very negative effect on the overall print quality once the filament fails to heat enough or overcooks during slow times.
You need a higher extrusion temp if you increase print speeds…
Makes some filaments tricky to work with…
Hi, some additional info, I printed this benchy on an X1E using Fiberlogy PP with BASF’s Ultrafuse PP Bambulab profile, smooth high temp bed, magigoo PP glue.
i think you are trying to help, but its just too much. tl;dr
What case to use PP over PC? Chemical resistance? Flexibility?
Doesn’t PP have a lot of flex resistance, i.e, you can flex it meany times without it breaking?
Not sure, but I think so. However, PC is excellent there too, if I recall, PC is the best at that.