I have just ordered the X1 Carbon 3D printer, and I would like to know if there is any possibility to print PPS (polyphenylene sulfide) with this printer.
As far as I know, the maximum printing temperature of this printer is 300ºC, whereas the printing temperature of this material is 315-345ºC. So it’s clear that this printer can’t print this material as default.
But my question is if there is any upgrade (changing the hotend or whatever) that could increase the print temperature…
I agree with @LennyB. Such hardware upgrades are not possible at the moment.
You may try the BL feature request and ask for higher temperature printability.
Also, in the remote hypothesis of someone developing a method to use custom firmware, I think you lose one of the critical advantages of the printer, i.e. excellent performance out of the box.
Its not unheard of to see a 300C printer print 310C filaments, but you have no leeway to adjust for issues. So, if you have a very simple design to print, it may work, but if not… you could be in for an expensive headache ($200/kg). Note, the melting point of PPS is around 285C so you could run in to extrusion issues and only have speed to adjust.
Having tried working with it a tiny bit (only minor successes so far), one other challenge is filament loading and unloading. It’s got a melting temperature of ~280C. All of the automated “LOAD” and “UNLOAD” operations heat the nozzle to 250, which is not going to cut it.
So what I’ve done so far is:
only use via external spool
manually set nozzle temp to 300
feed in filament; manually advance extruder using Orca (or whatever you like)
print (edit: sloooowly)
when it’s time to unload, manually cut the filament (press the lever on the print head by hand)
unload the filament
heat nozzle to 300
purge using PC filament, by hand. (you can’t use the automated “LOAD” function, with or without the AMS, because it’ll always set the nozzle temp to 250, and you’ll be sad.)
Ahh thanks! I poked around on google for a bit to try and find the actual vendor info but came up empty handed.
I should probably start looking for high-temp Voron builds instead of trying to print marginally high temp materials on the X1C. I can’t find a high temp 3D printer (that doesn’t suck) for under $10k.
Don’t feel bad on the TDS search… that company was tough to find. Got lucky just before giving up.
+1 on high temp printing. They are all extremely expensive and don’t seem to need to be that way. The big hurdles are very easy and only slightly expensive to overcome (component heat expansion and electronics cooling) but they are charging you for the R&D for all the little things that came over years of trial and error. Can’t blame 'em, but I don’t like it.
I didn’t know the Voron guys were dabbling in high temps. Gotta take a look. Thanks.
I read this post, bought the yxpolyer modified pps on Amazon and printed (no drying) an ugly benchy using the bambu HTPA cf profile, maxed all temps, slowed volumetric max.
I followed the above advice to avoid clogs and no ams.
The print has the characteristic metallic ‘rink’ when dropped on a hard surface, (see the YouTube video from 3dxtech reviewing their formulation of the polymer).
Neato, now I can make acetone dispensers and funnels and fitting for big oil .
Ya’ll, the answer is here, and it’s name is X1E. fairly recently Bambu put out the X1E, an engineering grade printer with, among other features, an actively heated chamber up to 60C and 320C hotend, as well as a better filter for this very purpose. do be aware though that it costs $2500, but 0x80O0oOverfl0w mentioned not finding any Decent high temp printers under $10k, so hopefully it fixes that.
so there’s your fix, a brand new, $2500 X1 for Engineers, that must be bought from separate 3rd party sellers in your Area or by contacting Bambu Directly. but other than that, enjoy and have fun with your PPA-CF/GF, PPS, and PPS-CF/GF printing!