Pre-printing preparation phase

I got a question regarding all the preparation things the X1C is doing before actually starting the print.
What I mean is:

Actually I’m printing much ASA/ABS with 260°C, with the textured PEI sheet, which is working quite good if using bed with ~105°C. When I start a print job, it’s doing many things, heating up nozzle and heatbed, doing homing, etc.

There are my questions starting:

  1. It starts heating up the nozzle and heatbed at the same time. The nozzle is quite fast at 260°C, the heatbed needs around double the time… Slowly the filament start to ooze out of the nozzle, then it’s travling around the bed, the oozed filament lays anywhere on the bed… Why isn’t it just heating the bed first, doing all the necessary homing things, reading QR code, etc. and if it’s done, it heats the nozzle and does everything which is needed to be done with heated nozzle? Does anybody experience the same?

  2. When starting the print with bed leveling, it heats up the printbed and nozzle, again the nozzle is quite much faster at temperature… Filament start oozing, for sure it will clean the nozzle in the back, but yes… But nevertheless, there is everytime a little dot of filament at the nozzle tip when it actually start probing, which means there isn’t a perfect layer afterwards…

  3. After the introduction line in the back of the bed, it typically travels over the hole bed, and starts to print mostly at the front of the bed… Often at this travel it has some small oozing again, which is dragged over the plate to stick anywhere and later on is visible at the bottom of the print. Why isn’t the Bambulab just starting printing in the back automatically?

My feeling is, that many of these issues weren’t there in the earlier firmware versions, and have been introduced with later firmwares…
Especially in the preprinting preparation things, I have the feeling, that many things could be very easily drastically be improved…

Would be nice to get some feedback, if you have the same experience or so?

Thanks, Tobias

Since I really want to have chamber heated when I start printing ABS/ASA I preheat the chamber by turning on bed heating before I even start loading parts into the slicer. I do not start the print before bed is at least 10min at the set temperature so I get chamber warm enough. When you start the print then bed is already at temp so you do not have the problem you are experiencing

IMHO doing so would solve all three of your issues

I do not have too much experience with X1C and ABS/ASA but this is the same procedure I use on ALL my printers that are enclosed and it always worked perfectly… only differences are, some chambers are crappier than others and some beds are smaller than others so instead of waiting 10minutes after bed reaches the 110C target (my ABS/ASA printbite temperature) on some I have to wait only 5minutes and on some printers I need to wait up to 20min for the chamber to reach acceptable temp.

This is what mine does as well. I’ve disabled a few of the settings to minimize the travel while the hot end is at temp, but #3 gets me every time. Sometimes I will actually try to grab the ooze with some tweezers, other times I hope that it gets caught in the skirt.

Hi Tobias.
This issue happens to me with ASA or any other filament. However, the issue is less prominent with ASA, as one of my most used filaments.
The nozzle heating is always faster in any printer(at least that I know) due to lower thermal inertia. In Klipper (other printers), I first heat the bed, and only when it is already near printing conditions I start to heat the extruder. Yet, the BL calibration process must be carried out at the right temperature.

In my experience, this issue is more noticeable if you need to purge and load new filaments. Retracting a more significant amount of filament would be helpful after cleansing the old filament and filling the nozzle with the new one. I am not aware if editing these start gcode using OrcaSlicer is possible. Note that a prominent retraction will increase the print, which can be crucial for the same BL users.

This issue also depends on the filament brand and model, so it can be minimised by changing the print settings. My opinion is that BL performance relies on using higher temperatures at the nozzle than the typical values, which will increase the “flowability” of the filament. This works perfectly for many filaments and fails in some brands and models. E.g. I had a pastel PLA that was continuously oozing during the calibration process, and for which I was forced to calibrate the temperature. With ASA, I have almost no issue with Polylite. But I tried a cheap local brand, and the problems were more noticeable.

I have an irritability problem with filament glued around the nozzle. So I manually remove it. Nevertheless, from my experience, it does not affect (at least significantly) the printer calibration. Another solution, pass by proper clean nozzle after the print, as explained in the wiki.

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Thanks for your messages.

I faced another thing, what I don’t get the point, what it’s doing:

I started a print without bed leveling or any other calibration (using orcaslicer).
I preheat the bed and also homed everything before. It starts heating up the nozzle, oozing some filament in the tray and then resets the temperature again to 140°C… Doing some small movements in the back. Everytime some small filament parts got stuck to the nozzle. Then it heats up again and starts printing… This is such a useless step, why can’t it be skipped?

Is it any how possible to propose some improvement in this regards directly to Bambulab? For me it looks so stupid easy to improve/prevent most of the talked “issues”.

Doesn’t seem like this was addressed in any of the updates since the original post.

To me, a fairly simple solution would be:

  1. A “preheat” function that allows you to set and hold bed and hotend temperature to some reasonable setting to help heat the chamber. Reasonable would be at or slightly below eventual bed temp, and right below “softening” temperature for the filament (ie, 95-100 for bed, and 180 for hotend for PAHT-CF)
  2. During normal print, start heating the nozzle to the softening temp, then bump it to the full temp right before something filament related happens.

I don’t think #1 is available using Bambu Studio. Probably is in Orca.