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Detailed description of the problem
After over 200 hours of printing with my X1C, I’m experiencing an issue where the nozzle oozes filament after the LIDAR scan, which ruins the second layer. The same problem occurs when I pause and resume the print.
Printer model used
X1C and AMS Firmware: 01.08.02.00 AMS: 00.00.06.44
.3mf file (if the file can be shared)
This issue occurs with all my slicings, regardless of the settings or layer height. RC_Rog_Support.3mf (526,3 Ko)
Any potentially useful information that is related to the problem
The issue occurs after the LIDAR scan and when pausing and resuming the print. I think adding a nozzle purge sequence via GCODE could help prevent the problem
No idea if it’s your problem but I have seen some mention here of nozzles getting worn inside especially with abrasive filaments and that causing print issues. It just rang since you mentioned 200 hours and oozing. I think where I saw it before they mentioned oozing specifically but 200 hours isn’t terribly high and you mentioned X1C which comes with a hardened nozzle.
But on the photos - really helpful if you can post them whenever having printing issues. Some can tell you what many problems are and how to fix just by inspection.
I’ve had this problem since the very first print. I replaced the entire hotend after 70 hours of printing…
There is definitely an issue, but I have no idea where it comes from.
I’m only using PLA and PETG HF for now. It’s clear that until this issue is resolved, I can’t move on to anything else. I’m using a nozzle with a hardness of 0.4.
Did you notice what the humidity was/is in the dryer when you pull filament out?
The problem is those numbers are almost always for “blast” dryers which are different and better than the heatbox dryers most actually use. The heatbox dryers can even humidify filament that’s already “dry”.
The problem is ambient relative humidity. The higher it is, the worse heatbox dryers perform. As it changes you can go from ok drying to terrible drying. The humidity in the dryer when you pull the filament gives an idea how the drying session actually went. Weighing the filament before and after drying will tell you how well you actually did.
But no idea if you did anything wrong. I was just commenting on the drying aspect since it might still be the issue. As an aside, I have a Sunlu S2+ (just has a fan over the S2) and made an air dryer to go with it. It takes ambient humidity out of the equation. It works great for me but it just posted and hopefully there will be reviews of how it works for others soon.
To my myopic eye that looks a bit like an adhesion issue but maybe your photo is tricking my eye.
If I’m just not seeing what you are getting at, these questions might be nonsense, but… Are you using any glue liquid or stick? Also, how do you clean the plate? What kind of plate? Looks textured PEI?
If it is a textured PEI plate, the advice is warm water and dish soap to clean with a good rinse and dry. Also if it is just adhesion and a PEI plate, you could increase bed temp a few degrees. Warmer bed sticks better. Some use glue on their PEI plates. I haven’t yet except the smooth one with glue stick. That works great for me.
But I’m approaching as an adhesion issue. I might be misinterpreting that photo.
Have you tried a new nozzle to see if it’s not a nozzle related problem? Sometimes it’s useful and practical to switch nozzles at regular intervals to forecome early nozzle wear. I know of several users who are doing this, especially when using some form of high-flow and/or abrasive filaments.
Exactly, I’ve thought about that solution for a long time. But in reality, there’s no miracle solution. That would imply relying on the dew point to determine at what temperature we should be dry or humid.
Let’s be practical. I’ve noticed that in my AMS, I often see a value of 1 or 2, and rarely 3, since I cycle my filament down to 22% in the Sunlu S2.
I’m not saying there’s too much moisture. No one could truly say if it’s perfectly dry or not. Weighing the filament is a solution, but is it really the most reliable one?
So, if I can assume the filament is dry, with AMS readings between 1 and 2, then the issue doesn’t come from there.
However, with PETG HF, I’ve noticed it starts oozing as soon as it exceeds 230°C, and during the printing cycle, the nozzle goes up to 250°C… Could it be a problem with an inappropriate profile?
It’s very simple, I use a textured PEI bed. I do clean it with warm soapy water. There’s no adhesion issue here, just filament that continues to ooze after cleaning.
Well, I’ve already changed the nozzle once. But I don’t think 200 hours of use with filaments that aren’t known to be abrasive could destroy a nozzle designed for abrasive materials! Unless there’s a real problem.
Either all the filaments are abrasive, in which case you’d have to change the nozzle every 10 hours = too expensive = major issue
Or it’s a problem with the filament that shouldn’t be abrasive, and then we should question the quality of the filament and/or the nozzle.
Actually you can say - it’s not perfectly dry. And weighing by itself can’t say much about actual water content. It’s just saying if water came or went. It takes another measurement - relative humidity in the filament drying chamber - to start to tell you something about drying progress.
But it sounds like for PLA you are in the ballpark and I’m getting good results. Can’t say for certain about temps on PETG - not much experience with it yet.
Thank you very much for your response. Indeed, I also realize that the question is not so easy to resolve.
Based on my experience, PLA hasn’t caused me many problems. However, PETG HF has proven to be a real disaster.
Now, what’s curious is that the problem arises from my slicings. So, questions are allowed. Let’s see what I will post next. This will probably shed more light on the issue!
Next, I initiated another pause to take a photo, and here is the state of the nozzle once parked. It’s very dirty, whereas it was clean at the time of the first pass. See image:
I decided to stop all my prints completely and then ran a manual calibration. I wanted to be sure it wasn’t an issue on my end but rather a GCODE problem.
Here’s what happened. I didn’t get a LIDAR pass, and it’s clear that the result is correct. The K value would be around 0.025, unless I’m mistaken. See image:
Now, I will try to completely remove my configuration files to reset Bambu Studio and see if I encounter the same problem. If so, it’s indeed a slicing issue. But which one.
I’ve finally decided to disable the “first layer verification” function.
As a result, the second layer directly engages with the first layer, assuming it hasn’t failed. From my tests, this is very rare and can be spotted at first glance with the camera.
The issue isn’t resolved, but it’s temporarily worked around.
Looking forward to your solutions, and thank you for your questions and all the help you’ve provided.
It’s a general update notification that relates to some A1 issues. Not necessarily required to update now, as you own an X1C. I usually ignore these update notifications until they specifically refer to the X1 series or relate to an update to the filament settings library.
And while in the later case I have no issues to update immediately, in case of the former I usually wait for a bit to see if there are any kind of printing issues or other kind of problems following the update. Just to stay on the safe side.
