Priming tower keeps falling down

Ok, about ~250 hours into my H2D at this point, and I have a decently big problem.

After around 900-1000 layers of printing, my prime tower will get knocked over

For a while, this was a problem on my models as well (things like supports being knocked over), but disabling “reduce infill retraction” solved my problem.

Now I am still getting my prime tower problem, which tends to cascade into bad printing quality since im dragging material over to my model and its randomly sticking to it.

Any idea how to solve this? My current “solution” is to buy a glacier plate and hope that with more brim the prime tower will stay even if there is nozzle collision, but I would ideally like to not have the collision at all in the first place.

I’ve attached the disaster that is my current print.

You can try:

Set Z hop to 0.6 mm and switch Z hop mode to normal

Wipe to normal mode

Apply Nano Polymer Adhesive at the location of the prime tower

Reduce travel speed to 500 mm/s

I don’t know what filament this is petg ?

You can also reposition the prime tower to the front right if the fans are affecting its current location.

need to know what filament you’re using

Thanks for the replies,

The problem has persisted with the prime tower in the back right and front left corners of the build plate.

It has happen with BL black PLA, this was BL pink PLA and ERYONE glow in the dark PLA (and PETG for interfacing).

I have disabled the setting that makes the nozzle not zhop over nfill, and that seemingly helps a bit, I will also try to change the z hop height.

You may probably want to look into several threads about bed heating issues or plate adhesion problems. As several users reported somewhat similar problem with a print being knocked out if it’s in the corners of the plate.

You can also change the size of the prime tower and the size of its brim. It will get more stable if you make it bigger (and uses more filament) and/or increase the brim (very minor increase in filament use).

You could also reduce the auxiliary fan speed to around 30–50% range.

I’m starting to face the same problem. Prime tower has fallen on a few of my jobs. I’m using the textured plate with variations of PLA (PLA+, HS PLA, PLA Meta) and I placed it on the front right of the plate. gets knocked over and ruins hours of printing. I just ordered the glacier since frostbite is sold out, have you found a solution? They just released a firmware update…

I had the print head strike a support tree. It looked like the Z-hop was too slow and the travel speed was too fast from the timelapse.

I went back and reviewed the printer’s travel moves and saw it crossing over the support tree. It shouldn’t have collided with it, but it did so I adjusted a few settings to prevent it from crossing over the support tree on this particular part.

I had to enable ‘Avoid crossing walls’ and set the value to zero. This changed the toolhead’s path, preventing it from traveling over the support it previously collided with.

I also usually set the seam position to ‘Back.’ The reason is that with some parts, the nozzle can sometimes travel on the wall surface to get back to the aligned seam, which you’ll notice by the unusual sound the toolhead makes during this move.

Another thing you can try if you haven’t already is to set a manual value for the prime tower brim width. Instead of leaving it on ‘Auto’. Try setting it to 10 mm or more, depending on your filament type and the size of the prime tower.

Some filaments I slow the prime tower speed down.

Nano Polymer Adhesive also helps it’s a great form of insurance for improving bed adhesion when needed.

I hope this helps you out with your project best of luck, and happy printing!

It’s highly likely not caused by the z hop move, but the tree is likely slightly deformed (branches warped upwards). Not too much we can do other than increasing z hop height, or forcing the z hop to do straight lifts/dropdowns i think.

Hi hotellonely,

I was using a 0.6 normal Z-hop for this part, thinking it would be a safe amount. I’ve printed this part multiple times on the X1C without any issues yet, all possibilities remain open on the H2D.

However, I’m still fine-tuning the H2D’s hot end and cooling settings.

On the motion abillity I might try increasing the Z-axis jerk setting when using supports just to see if it helps.
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Enjoy your 3D printing :grinning:

wow, if 0.6mm normal (straight up, straight down) z hop didn’t work, I don’t really know what must have went wrong here then. Are you using tree support? I’m wondering if maybe the slicer skipped some closer travel moves from z hopping. However I can’t really see much chance of that either because it looks like in my test file it seems that it’s generating z hops on supports correctly. What is your z hop travel distance threshold?

Don’t have a H2D, but you can influence your prime towers location and footprint width. (Process → Multimaterial) A big tall boi like that might benefit from a wider stance.

My mind immediately goes to prusa towers, which are more pyramid in nature. Maybe something like that is needed now that bambus are able to print taller.

This section had tree slim supports, with a travel distance of 1 mm, a travel speed of 1000 mm/s, and an acceleration of 10,000 mm/s

I was just as shocked when I heard it. :scream:

I was lucky because the tree support also fits into a groove slot in the wall, which helped keep everything aligned and saved the print.