Hello, I was planning to print ASA. My first attempt with a fully heated printing chamber and the standard printing plate failed. Unfortunately, one corner of the plate has come loose. I tried this with a brim of 10.
Next I came across a Youtube that printed the first 2-3 players with PLA and the rest with ASA. The setting for this was no problem. My print was successful without a heated printing chamber, but with a long cooling time on the printing board.
However, I was unfortunately unable to find a position. When you start printing with PLA, the top and rear openings remain open (Adaptive air circulation). After changing the filament to ASA, the openings were still open. Since my ASA from Anycubic (only bought for testing purposes) stinks a lot and the vapors spread throughout the room. I could no longer be in the room.
Can someone explain to me how I can set it so that from e.g. player 3, when the filament change happens, the bambu closes the openings?
I assume that you have to tap on the plus sign with the right mouse button and enter your code.
I think you would need to change the start g-code for the PLA chamber management to stop it from opening up.
But I’m having a hard time understanding why you would want to use that trick with a heated chamber? I haven’t printed much ASA, but I have printed tons of ABS and the heated chamber is basically an “Easy Button” for warping. Is that not the case for ASA in your experience? If so, what does the geometry look like? Is it a 200-300mm square? Basically asking how difficult of a print is it?
BTW, instead of this trick, personally, I would just use glue.
I would simply increase the plate and chamber temps to print ASA. The GF and CF versions of ABS and ASA are more dimensionally stable than the plain versions.
Perhaps I expressed myself incorrectly.
If I want to print the ASA using PLA, of course I don’t heat the chamber! The chamber remains at the usual PLA temperature, which is created by the nozzles etc.
Where can I find all the codes for the chamber control? Or could you possibly give them to me? Then I would print PLA directly with the chamber closed. There are only 2-3 layers and the rest with ASA.
I only have Pritt glue stick. It tends not to stick at all on a 100 degree print bed.
For this reason, it would even be a rectangle with edges.
I don’t have Studio installed on this computer, but its found in the Printer Profile under Start G-Code. In that G-Code you would want to edit the section that says Set Airduct Mode. But its incredibly complicated on the H2D. I wouldn’t feel comfortable building one for you. I would hate to miss something and end up costing you money. You also may have to adjust something in other sections because it looks to reference the airduct mode all over the place. I don’t think its risky, but I haven’t gone through it line by line to verify that. But this would be one way to disable the venting when you don’t want it to vent.
Also, there was a guy on YouTube that said once the print started, he could use the LCD or Slicer to close the vent and set things manually. I just don’t know if you would have to do that multiple times. By updating the Start G-Code, you can set that automatically.
I print ASA without any issues on my X1 Carbon, even large models that cover most of the build plate. I never go above 50 °C chamber temperature, but I keep all fans disabled and reduce the print speed with grid infill for larger prints.
Given that, I wouldn’t expect chamber heat to be a problem on the H2D either. What build plate are you using, and what temperature do you set it to?
On my X1 Carbon, I run the bed at 110 °C and disable all fans unless I’m printing fine details. Also worth mentioning—I always use glue for anything other than PLA, since hoping for good adhesion without it is usually just a waste of time.
I print almost exclusively in ABS/ASA and don’t ever use glue. If I have adhesion problems I give the bed (textured or smooth PEI) a really good scrub with dish soap and hot water.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to using adhesive—and neither is wrong. I recommend trying both approaches to see which works best for you. In my experience, every failed print wastes valuable time and materials, so an adhesive is a cost-effective investment to prevent print failures.
I use Magigoo’s product line for all of my prints.
That “trick” is for people that dont have a heated chamber. With the heated chamber on H2D kind of silly to resort to those kind of “hacks”, but to each their own. You can just turn off the chamber fan on the printer after its done printing PLA, it will auto close the front air intake.
For me so far, ABS with default settings works flawlessly. ASA with default settings warps (and smells). I’m thinking of trying ASA with ABS profile.
