Is there any way to do a heatmap, or something like it, on the print bed without buying extra equipment? I’m having some issues with ASA peeling off the print be as it gets to the edges/corners. I’m curious as to what the temp difference is across the bed to help eliminate the issue. I’m running the stock PEI plate on an H2S. 90*c build plate, 260 print, 60 chamber. I have the engineer plate as well, but I do not see how switching to it would help, correct me if I am wrong.
I’ve read the comment several times now and thought about it, but I’m still not sure how a heatmap is supposed to help improve print results. You can’t control the heating plate specifically – due to its design, the edges are always slightly cooler than the centre.
Perhaps you should upload the 3D object or image to the slicer. There are other ways to address this issue. For example, you could change the design of the object or use a more suitable infill. To provide some context, it would be helpful to have at least a rough idea of what you want to print. For example, if it’s a large cube, it’s normal for the corners to contract and cause problems such as lifting at the corners, unless you actively counteract this.
Did you follow these tips? I’ll post them for you:
Some people also recommend “slurry/juice”, but I’ve never tried it myself. Better try that on an old printer plate first. Even though it says “ABS” in this articles, it’s also available/doable for ASA:
https://all3dp.com/2/abs-glue-slurry-juice-tutorial/
Have you ever thought about just buying a plate that has better adhesion to this type of material? Are you referring to the Textured PEI Plate or the Smooth PEI Plate? If I’m reading this correctly, only the Textured PEI Plate is included in the H2 package?
What kind of filament are you using exactly? Some require significantly higher temperatures for the print bed. Your 90° might not be enough.
Although it is difficult to make a genuine heat map without a thermal camera, you can occasionally identify temperature variations by printing big single-layer test designs and examining the areas where adhesion begins to fail. Additionally, ASA is quite sensitive to drafts, so bed temperature may not be the only factor contributing to edge lifting.
Try making a pattern of say 3mm dots spaced on a grid of 10mm and print that and see which ones don’t adhere.
Thanks for the replies all. I was following the low end of the specs from the manufacturer. What I’m printing is the base to a birdhouse at the moment, so its a big square. The edges lifted and it got a weird line in a few spots. Nothing that ruins the print, its just for my house. But its enough that it’s noticeable. I’ve tried all the suggestions listed in that 3D Sourced chart except the slurry. Not sure I want to try it on that plate. And yes I am using the textured PEI plate. I have that plate and the engineering plate. Would I be better off going to a cool plate? I’m printing another part now on a higher print bed temp, 95, and we will see if it peels. I’ve added a brim to it as well to see if that helps any.
I think you would be better off with a better plate. On the existing PEI plate you could use an adhesive specifically for ASA but need to be careful not to damage the surface when removing the part. I prefer to run BIQU Cryogrip Glacier on all my printers. It works well with most ASA parts without an adhesive.
Do not attempt to use a ASA slurry unless you are willing to sacrifice the plate. Acetone will damage the surface.
If you want maximum adhesion then you can try Garolite G10. ASA will almost weld itself to the surface and sometimes the geometry can lift the sheet off the print bed. It will release once the plate cools and you flex it. One thing about ASA on a G10 surface is to never use an adhesive or it will bond so strongly with the plate and you’ll be breaking out the acetone to (destructively) remove the part.
Otherwise, with what you currently have, can try adjusting the perimeters to 4-5 and use a 10-15% gyroid infill. Also, mouse ears on the corners.
I’ll look into the Garolite plate. I know Darkmoon makes a nice one. As for glue, I tend to use Elmers glue sticks with pretty good results (I have boxes of them I got for free), but at these bed temps it doesn’t seem to help. It works great on PLA, PETG, and even ABS. I’ve been running a 15% gyroid infill. The last print came out well with the increased bed temp and adding an 8mm brim. It was just a long rod, but the contact area with the bed was small. I’ll be printing the walls of the house tonight and that will be a good test.
I’ve tried Darkmoon however Holden Enterprises makes a much better G10 plate. They are way more expensive though: Bambu Lab H2D Custom Build Plate. If you are printing a lot of engineering plastics then it’s worth it (for me at least).
I would also suggest the BIQU Cryogrip Glacier as a general purpose plate. They are better than anything I’ve tried and don’t need to be cleaned (regularly).
Thanks for the suggestion. I dont print a ton in engineering plastics, I just am using asa for some outdoor stuff. If I ever get into it for profit items, then I may spring for the Hidden plate. I’ve looked a lot at the Cryogrip and read a lot of good things about it. Its on my to get list, but I have an H2C to get first. It will do most of my PLA and PETG prints, so I will probably just wait and buy it for that printer when the time comes.