Hello, it happens again and again that the print head destroys the print. Unfortunately, I can’t say what it depends on because sometimes everything goes well and then the next time, after a few layers, it destroys the print. It’s about the A1 Mini. I’ve already tried different types of PLA, also with higher and lower temperatures and with slow printing. Also with a print plate that needs to be cleaned. Any ideas ?
Hi, I think you have a problem with the Z axis, try to clean with kitchen paper well and apply a good quantity of superlube at the two sides of the rail of the Z vertical axis
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I hada heck of a time with my A1 combo constantly knocking prints off the build plate about 50% of the time. Even with adhesion promotion techniques it would still knock a solidly stuck print from the build plate at various times. tried different zhop settings, speed adjustments ect but no matter what i tried it just wouldnt reliably print. So when Bambu changed from supplying microcenter with replacement heat beds to printer exchanges only i upgraded to another p1s combo. The X and P series printers in my farm are highly reliable with low failure rates. Most of the issues now are either user error during slicing, my fault, or on projects that I must have “clean” so no glue stick on the bed and the PEI sheet just doesnt hold. Im running at about 99.8% success rate on those printers. Doing the math and at 50% failure rate on the A1 I have far surpassed the amount I would have spent just buying another P1S combo, and am close to the price of an X1C combo in trashed filament cost.
I do not regret buying the A1, and with a bit more work it would be a phenomenal printer. but it was doing the same thing all my creality and worn prusas were doing when i started replacing them with bambu printers, knocking parts off the build plate.
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Really not enough information to go on but here is a couple things that worked for me. Changing infill from grid to gyroid and unchecking reduce infill retraction. I have not had a collision since I changed thise settings.
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Hi, i got the same Problem with all of my Prints since Yesterday.
Here is a Video streamable dot com /8fz7ol
I was having an issue with my nozzle breaking off parts of the print and support told me to use “z hop when retract” and set it to 0.6mm. I don’t know if that would fix this issue but it solved my issue. I would contact support if you can’t figure it out.
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I have my A1 mini since two days and since then I have printed almost 24 hours a day. Everything worked fine! But now I have exactly the problem described here.
Could you please specify what exactly “z hop when retract” means and where I have to set that value to 0.6mm? Sadly, I don’t fully understand what you mean by that. I have cleaned the nozzle, removed it and inserted it again. I have also oiled all the axes, nothing helped. It seems completely odd to me, because for two days it did absolutely fine and suddenly things went wrong.
Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of Bambu! That setting is in Bambu Studio under the printer settings and then the “extruder” tab.
Z-hop is when the print head moves up every time it travels from one spot to another. That setting tells it exactly how high to move up every time it does a retraction (pulls the filament back up).
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Thank you! I will try that!
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Might also be this…
As mentioned by mltriebe back in June, grid infill can be the cause. In fact there are a number of infills that can cause failure - sometimes. These infills do not raise the head when the filament crosses over others that have just been laid down. If it’s a large area of infill, then the previous ‘layers’ have set, the head crashes into them, and bad things can happen. For small areas, the filament can be soft so that the head can push through it. You can check the problem type by using the slicer, and looking carefully as you go through the layers. Unfortunately, grid is the default, iirc.
In my case, the nozzle started touching the print and destroyed it after the second layer. This procedure helped:
A1 Series First Layer Print Issues - First Layer Too Low, Hotend Moving | Bambu Lab Wiki
Specifically, the Check the Hotend and Heater section. Four back screws were completely loose after a few months of printing. I recommend checking and tightening them.
I also did a manual plate alignment and the print is fine again:
A1 mini Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
Sadly, I am experiencing the same issue again. However I recognized that the extruder is making some strangs clicking or clattering sounds and as you can see in the video I made (YT link), the structure of the print is not accurate.
I have used a new spool of filament (Bambu PLA Basic) and after two succesful prints it started to do that. I unscrewed the nozzle, cleaned it, cold pulled the filament, tightend all the screws as described in the linked solutions and did a complete calibration. Nothing worked. Any help is absolutely appreciated!
Your extruder is skipping. Looks like it’s trying to push filament but it’s losing grip or something is preventing the filament from moving forward out of the nozzle.
I’m curious about unscrewing the nozzle. Are you using an aftermarket nozzle or stock? What screws?
The printer is 4 weeks old, its the original parts.
I mean the screws which are described in this help tutorial: A1 Series First Layer Print Issues - First Layer Too Low, Hotend Moving | Bambu Lab Wiki
What would you recommend me to do?
I would check the extruder, then look at those screws again just to make sure they’re tight.
Do you have another nozzle to install. Like to see if it happens across nozzles. I’m not convinced there’s not a partial clog.
I’ve checked the screws, thanks johnfcooley. Sadly, I do not hasve another nozzle, but right now I’m trying to once again do some cold pulls with and without the hex key and it seems that the waxy feel around the needle is slowly dissolving.
I also wrote this as a solution in another thread, but I’ve solved the issue. Here is what I did:
- Performed several cold pulls, including two hex key cold pulls with the help of a lighter (initially, I was hesitant to push the hex key far enough in).
- After multiple cold pulls, I noticed that the waxy resistance inside the nozzle was gone when using the needle.
- Switched PLA filament, though only the color (went from black to brown, and back to black again—Bambu Basic PLA).* Did a full recalibration of the printer.
- Adjusted the “z hop when retract” setting to 0.6mm.
Result: The printer is now working perfectly, and the extruder skipping is completely gone!
Good to hear.
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