The 0.6mm is not required. It is just recommended as clogs are more likely with particle loaded filaments in a 0.4mm nozzle. I am also not sure why the PLA-CF is included in the starter package. The CF changes thermal properties and has an effect on mechanical properties and of course look and feel of the object, but where I am concerned about properties I usually look at alternative, unloaded and hence cheaper materials.
I assume you mean the prints? Well, Bambu claims in their ad’s NOT to have made the perfect printer. It is just the case that for consumers, the X1C brought (near) professional performance into our budgets + the AMS + a (more or less usable) speed revolution. So no wonder that the 3D printing world got all excited (me included 
). As an anecdote, I recently visited an R&D institute where an X1C was happily chugging along a bunch of Ultimakers. That says quite something about this printer. Still, they were all going at what would be the Bambu’s slow setting. → So no. 3D printing is not yet plug-and-play. Still a lot of plug-and-do-practical-problem-solving.
The LIDAR is, imho, underused so far. It is not strictly neccessary for bed levelling and manual calibration (in particular when compared to options in the Orca slicer). Still it has so far served me well for PLA and PETG with its convenience. Needs to be kept clean though. Both the emitters and the receiver. And can be impaired by bright lights in the room.
Was this with the PLA or the PLA-CF? Did you also dry the filament? If the AMS did read 30%, the filament is probably soaked. Now having 10% in the AMS, it would still leave the filament soaked. They can be dried in the printer or a filament dryer though.
Not sure what you mean here. Do you have a link to what you refer to as stage 1? And do you have a pic?
A new clog or only partially removed clog is quite possible. But then it would have to be rather small since you reported normal filament flow earlier or it happened between your observation and the calibration. Then there’s nothing to it but to unclog again (using the Allen key method, the automated one never worked for me).
Still, without a pic, it is all speculation. A pic would help to differentiate between, for example, bed adhesion issues and filament flow issues. If the plate (which one are you using?) was not cleaned with water and soap, that is a very common reason for immediate fails. And yes, glue helps on some of the plates. It can however be over- and underused. I myself used far too much on my first prints.
It could be thermal paste issue which, as partferret mentioned, is rare though. The paste is needed to enable temperature control. If that is impeded by brittle paste AND be sufficiently severe to cause clogs, you’d most likely be able see clearly wrong temperature nozzle temps. And probably an error code. Or you will very soon. There are a few threads here in the forum. With the printer being new, you could try getting a new hotend assembly from Bambu if that could be confirmed.
Either way, keep in mind that 3D printing is not (yet) plug-and-play. Perhaps, you will want to stick to the PLA Basic prints initially, taking it slow, both with the print speed and the learning curve until you gain confidence and experience. There are quite nice and impressive PLA Basic prints you can do for that. Slice parts yourself rather than using print profiles to better understand what is happening and in general, do not take it for granted that anything works out of the box in 3D printing.
From my experience, the X1C is much more forgiving to what I had in the past. But it clearly does require stepwise learning once moving on from PLA Basic and comfortable speeds.
Keeping my 
Also teaches how to use the manual spool bypass.