Pretty nice to know, but thats not acceptable for my wish of getting 70° degree overhangs like on a V400.
Ive made some progress. Look at this link to stay updated.
65° clean with standart 0.12 settings are possible. Reducing the temp and go slower and/or using aux fan will give even better results.
I will upload the file soon.
Taking a look at your print, my X1C can produce that same print almost flawless using the default 0.2mm layer height. I believe I posted pictures. Regardless. Your machine has an issue. I already outlined in great detail what those issues are possibly. Did you try to tighten your belts? Or clean your carbon rods? Make sure your printer is on a rock solid surface? And if you did then you need to reach out to Bambu. Add a link to this forum and politely tell them the tasks you’ve performed. They can assist you further. The model your printing is a stress test. It will never print perfect, that’s the whole point of the model. Even my x1c has ugly under hangs because it’s literally printing in mid air. No printer can print in mid air. I wasn’t even going to comment because of your last post claiming your other printer can do better… honestly that’s not what these forums are for, if you want to compare one to another make a different threat. This threat is here to help people who had the issue I had. My issue is fixed and so can your be if you just follow the guide. And if you have then you need to reach out to Bambu. Playing with slicer settings, speed, fan speed. It’s just an unnecessary rabbit hole. The default profiles are some of the best profiles made by the engineers who built the printer. Most people shouldn’t muck with them, they should be a base and modified slightly per model as needed but only if needed.
I hope that helps. This isn’t the threat for bad cooling theories. In fact I think the x1 has some of the best cooling out there. The aux fan works great. Most of the material I print “petg” I don’t even use cooling, or very little. Again it works just fine.
Instead of throwing this big text at me, you should have read mine thread … Nevermind I wont argue under such circumstances
Your post was off topic, and I have flagged it as such.
I have seen your thread and I am not interested.
I have nothing against you, I wish you all the best.
Note: This topic has been solved
Only reply here if:
- You have additional details
- The solution doesn’t work for you
If you have an unrelated issue, please [start a new topic] (Bambu Lab Community Forum) instead.
Might be related to this one
From time to time have been having issues with overhangs but never critical but worse than Prusa and today 3dsurfr reported an issue and tried to check it on my machine from curiosity and yes it is an issue and finally discovered what is the actual problem slicing . Googled and found this thread
Have found a couple of work arounds but not happy with the solutions . Changing the layer height on some models helps , but working with 0.2 is the common , I know that 0.12 and 0.08 most of the time solves it , also orca slicer has a nice feature as well which i think works always
Any one found a solution of the slicing in the air when the angle is above 65degress some times less with 0.2 layer height ?
My temperature profiles and filaments are very well tunned , so not related to fan, temperature for filament tuning , and pretty sure that 3dsurfr is an expert in that area as well.
Didnt adjust a single setting for these. My overhangs sucked before the dual fan. Also very dry and calibrated filament.Notice the last pic is better on the right side thn the left. The duct that the guy designed for the right side has a better spread. Covers the whole build plate. The first pic shows bridging across nearly the whole build surface.Both were printed fast.
I also have real filtration for asa and abs now. Just ran a switch to the original aux fan so it can be turned off while using the bento box on the right.
Not sure where the fuzzies came from. This pink pla does it to me every time. And only the pink.
Do you have a link for that last test model?
If you read below on that link, he has a couple other interesting overhang tests linked
Good news your printer is working.
But i don’t understand people using high tech printers which need accelerometer Sensors for movement compensation, and put it on a wobbly stand.
My printer was placed on the ground. I never received problems like this even using default profiles and bambu materials. After printing several thousand of hours pla, petg, and cf materials i didn’t cleaned the rods or adjusted belt tension. I plan to do now thanks for the good explanation.
I bet your problem 100% based on wobbly table.
Hi I have come across your post i am new to the 3d printing world and having the same issues as yourself so frustrating I don’t have any cleaning alcohol on my so I have ordered some, in time being I have done the belts like you I had a spare 0.4 nozzle changed that too done a calibration and still having issues from the 50* mark going to clean the rods once the alcohol turns up if no luck will have to contact Bambu directly.
it prints flat objects fine try to print one of the usb cable tidy spools and it has failed 3 times on the hangover grrrr…
im a total noob, just got my 3d printer 2 days ago… i also think i ran into this issue…whole print is fine just the bottom parts are horrible… i tried with a couple different support styles and they all didnt helped… it tried 0,08 layer height and 1,5 and 2 …still all the same…
i think i might try cleaning it but i doubt this will fix it… i think the wobble on my desk may be a bigger factor… i will stand it on the floor so its totally fixed, for a test print…
ok i have been checking out the printer and most of my prints work out perfect…
only things i cant manage to get right , with or without support are the overhangs…
idk i saw mutliple pics and videos online with perfect overhangs…
i get the feeling its not my fault!!!
i probably printed this figure about 20 times… tried everythign possible and alwas get similiar results… i start to belive something in the printer isnt straight! maybe something warped from shipping…
Overhang capability is theoretically only a function of layer width to layer height ratio, but in reality many other factors affect it: temperature/cooling, speed, outer/inner wall order, filament type/brand/humidity - you name it. That head and cap visor doesn’t look trivial to print without supports but it’s hard to judge from the pictures. Is that a free model somewhere that we could look at to judge it? What filament and presets are you using?
hi thanks for the answer, i tried everything u named… best result was with 0,08 layer height and very slow and all fans on 100…
but still looked bad… allso supports dident helped tried a ton of variations… with petg, etc…
i have a similar model i had the same problem… i basically have them on all overhangs…
if u want u can cut the boddie then u just have the head and it s faster for testing.
- dont mind there are no supoprts on the colar thats my fault lol…
but i would be happy if the head /chin at least would be smooth
So your problems are basically with supports, as opposed to unsupported overhangs? Did you do any kind of calibration of your filament?
yes did the orca calibartions… it also doesnt matter what filament its always…
some areas should work out without any support! these areas shoud look perfect if i add supports! but they turn out horrible…
Areas that don’t really need support shouldn’t have it, because support interfaces normally leave some artifacts. Did you read Support Filament --> PETG for PLA and PLA for PETG and more?
like i said i tried everything it looks bad with supports and without… i dont care if it works out with or without supports - u dont get my point its not working either way!!!
kind of tired of ppl always telling the same thing… if i said i tried everything i tried everyhting!!! also it says a few posts earliere i used petg as supports…
pls just print it and then u can say more… because im pretty sure the bambu just can handle it thats it!
You are not easy to help then, are you? I’ll give you a last advice: Instead of trying everything you should concentrate on a single thing until you nail it. Fetch an overhang test model such as Overhang Test - 3D model by juankmed on Thangs. Then pick a good quality filament to start with. Start with Bambu filament if you have some, because then the presets are likely fine. From that point, keep trying with that same model and that same filament (and no supports) until you nail it. For each new test, change ONE parameter, not several. Such as layer height, speed or temperature. Good luck, I’m outta here.