This is a pen holderthe top circular portion seems to get a bit wider than the portions that are not full circle. I am using Hatchbox white PLA filament. What could be causing this?
Kind of. When printing from the bottom, the circular section is fully supported. When printing the top part, it’s partially hanging in mid air.
You’re not using supports. Use supports.
3 Likes
I spent the last few hours printing this on another of my printers (an older home-made corexy machine). Exact same model, with no supports there as well. I do not see this issue on there. It printed slower but came out just like the stl file.
Ill be out of town for a couple of days but when l come back, I want to continue my research to see what the cause of this was on my P1P, unless someone else comes up with a solution before that.
There are so many variables in 3D FFF printing, “it printed just fine with basically the same settings on another printer” doesn’t necessarily mean anything. Printing speed will matter for certain. Particularly for overhangs like you have here, speed is a key parameter of success. Extrusion temperature will matter (and just because the two printers say they’re at the same temp doesn’t mean they really are). Chamber and ambient temps will matter. Fan speeds will matter, as will how the air is directed towards the extrusion point on the two different designs. The slicer matters. The filament condition at the time it is being used matters (hydroscopic filaments change with the ambient environment). Adding supports will likely minimize the effects of all these variables, while allowing you to print at a higher speed.
Supports would be the first thing to try since it requires a minimum amount of effort. Everything else will require you to iteratively print copies as you tune things. Supports, you just turn on and let them do their thing.
You could probably achieve the results you want going the manual tuning route, but it’s going to be a lot more work…
2 Likes
I will check more when i get back. But here are the conditions I printed the two prints.
Both printers were in the same room on the same table, side by side, both had same ambient temperature (both have no enclosures) no draft as all windows are closed in the print room with no fans or AC units. Both printers I used the same filament (I removed the roll from one and put it on the other) so any moisture would be exactly same on both prints, so filament condition remained the same. I printed both at the same extruder temperature, although i see you mention it does not mean they really are. If slicer matters, that is interesting. In my case these were only 2.5 mm thin walls which were basically 100 percent full as I had 3 perimeter walls that makes it 6 walls side by side at .5mm line thickness. (I used a .6mm nozzle in both printers) I have to admit I have spent countless hours experimenting over the past few years when something wasn’t right (as well as building and modifying all my other printers). I guess I will spend more time on this till I find out the more-work way. Although I might waste some time, its gonna be more fun and am looking forward to it.
With it being a .6 nozzle the P1P probably printing it faster then the material can handle. Try slowing down the printer a little. Although I agree with others comments on support I would use tree support on it myself.
With my past FFF printers, I would always struggle to orient my parts to minimize how much support was required. Supports never seemed to work very well for me. But I’ve been using them on everything that’s needed supports with the Bambu and have been pretty happy with the results. A supported surface with a separate support material prints almost as cleanly as the build plate surface. But even when I use the same filament, supports are coming out OK (meaning they break away cleanly and the supported surface isn’t horribly marred or separate strands). My past aversion to supports has been all but eliminated.
2 Likes