I have a P1S (upgraded from the P1P, I have the custom gcode set) and I’m having some issues with print quality, even on PLA. Simple prints come out fine, but anything with overhangs or long vertical sections looks rough. I recently printed out this print-in-placer scissor lift and it has every issue that I’m facing in one print:
Wobbly/wonky lines
vertical sections extremely stringy or at best, very “striped” looking with blemishes
this does generally help for me, but is there an easier way to save this than creating a new print profile for every type of filament? (pla basic, pla matte, pla marble, etc etc)
You can either have a fast print time or a great quality.
To get both you need to know the physics of the game.
Layer times matter, both in terms of the filament having time to cool and in terms of the filament not cooling down too much.
Only if all temps are consistent the result is consistent as well.
Ideally we would have a constant flow rate during our prints but that’s not possible.
I have different print profiles for different purposes.
Like a fast one with out wall speeds sitting at 500mm/s or a slow one for best results with translucent filaments and a few in between.
Sometimes even with slight variations in flow ratio and almost always with different extrusion temps.
And since having tried a few different nozzles I realised that the Bambu ones are far from perfect in terms of producing the results expected fro the price of these machines.
Check the slicer preview for speed-, flow- and layer time changes.
In almost all cases you find that your problem areas match areas of change in the slicer preview.
For example messed up corners on large models are often caused by the acceleration settings being to high for that model.
And outer wall quality is often subject to layer times and infill changes.
Overhangs, even with support, often struggle because the area stays too soft and when the next line goes on top the adhesion is insufficient.
The only way to always get the best possible print for all models is to use the lowest speed and acceleration where all possible downfalls would come out great…
For all else you either make sacrifices or adjust things accordingly.
No, as soon as I found the toggle I tried to find a source for where the gcode was added (I don’t remember) and I can’t find it. Is that only stored in Studio so I can just uninstall/reinstall or does it sync to your account somewhere?
Well, assuming that you added GCode to the custom presets the simplest way to eliminate custom GCode is to select another standard printer profile found in the Printer menu. Note, you cannot overwrite these profiles but the slicer lets you save them under a new name which appears under “User Presets”. So look for that name in the menu and use that to determine which one of the “System Presets” it was copied from then simply select that preset.
The bottom line is that rule number #1 of troubleshooting, change only one variable at a time. In the example you cited above, you run the risk of trying to diagnose “stacking” problems. One does not know if it was the custom GCode, filament, or something else. So the tenets of troubleshooting is to revert the entire system back to a known state and to proceed making changes from that point.
