Does anyone have a working set of filament parameters for the Chinchilla TPE 75A filament, on the X1C?
Found some comments scattered on reddit - but they are all over the map: ie use 10mm/s speed, then no wait, use 40!.. or… use 0.5 volumetric speed. then no, wait, use 2.8!..
And all the comments provide incomplete information.
So far, i’ve reduced the tension on the print-head feeder drive - which helped against the filament getting squished out the side and in between the gears.
The filament extrudes out, but printing is 80-90% inconsistent.
Has anyone figure out a full set of parameters that work?
Since no one anywhere seems to know how to print this I wanted to post what I’ve done with reasonable success so far. I’m a rookie at this form of printing so I hesitate to claim which of these settings (or all) that I’ve changed are getting these results. Either way it’s better when what others are reporting.
If you think you know how to improve this PLEASE let us all know.
*These settings are no where near what the manufacturer suggested.
Observations and comments:
I seemed to have the most success widening the Line Width. I have not put a calipers on it yet to validate the width. My understanding is this was a method of pushing more material (IDK). What happened previous to this is it would leave considerable gaps between paths.
Wall overlap seemed to be a critical adjustment as well.
Additionally raising the nozzle temp quite a bit helped. It is probably close to the maximum before negatively impacting.
Going exceeding slow was my last recourse and I had to drop it all the way to 5.
The first layer prints pristine and every layer after looks a little worse with the same settings, I do not understand why.
I would like to push material faster but I don’t know how, everything I read regarding Max Volumetric Speed and Flow Ratio.
Running a hotter bed was a mistake and unnecessary. It will permanently attach to the plate. It may be able to run even colder.
The spool needs to be on very smooth bearings to roll. There may be a tension screw internally that can be adjusted to help, I did not want to mess with this.
This parts will curl (upwards in my case) if not supported.
I noticed that reducing the nozzle temp to 245 Celsius for the first layer and 240 for all others results in much neater prints, at least with Chinchilla filament (Ninjatek 75A TPE).
For print speed, you should be fine to augment it to 10 and 15. The results with the P1S are fine and the wait time is significantly reduced
I stand corrected: 240 and 245 don’t cut it in terms of layer adherence. I have layer separation when I use 240. I do not see this with 250 and 255.
Extremely important though is that the filament has as less resistance as possible when feeding the printer / unwinding the spindle. Even the slightest force will result in bad flow and a failed layer and print. I used a special side-mounted axle with ball bearings and even that sometimes had issues. The best results I had with the feed is when I prepull a loop of filament from the spindle so the printer only has to pull the string in without having to pull the spindle. But as the print is quite slow, it’s insane to sit next to the printer all day pulling the filament… I have not solved this issue yet.
I would personally just run the calibrations. Your roll may be different than others.Temp, Flow rate, pressure advance and then max flow rate. Use orcaslicer. Once you have these set, the printer wont print beyond the max flow rate unless you put it in sport or ludicrous modes. Probably somewhere around 3-5 mm3/s. Temp needed will somewhat change based on ambient temps since the bed wont be heated.(the chamber will be as cold as the room its in)
