I printed this a few days ago and it came out fine. Now, It’s all tore up, not sure if the nozzle is rubbing or what, I tried multiple types of infill… I got the printer a week ago, everything is calibrated. Any Ideas?
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Could it be something to do with cooling?
Too Fast. Slow down Sparse infill to 180 mm/s or slower. Dont do infill combination on big infills like that.
I appreciate the clear photo, it helps. But you left out a whole lot of info that would engender a higher quality answer.
Exactly are we looking at? To me this looks like a print that was interrupted after only 3 layers were printed. Can you post an image of the sliced model as it appears in your slicer so we can have a general idea of what the end product would look like? Also, it would help if you shared with us the filament you’re using. Is this PLA or PETG or something else.
However, in the absence of that information and in the meantime, have you ruled out a bed leveling issue? Have you performed a bed leveling procedure before your print? Since you stated you suspect grinding, I must assume you are witnessing first hand some head clearance issues. I suggest this because you say it worked once so my first theory is that the bed leveling calibration may have become corrupt. This can happen with extreme temp changes in the room such as going from room temp to cold during winter months like it is now in the northern hemisphere. However unlikely that theory may be, it’s the easiest to test and rule out, just check the bed leveling box before you print.
The other and more likely issue I can see from the limited data you provided, is that the filament appears to be extruding at the wrong temp. Three things that come to mind of possible causes.
- Incorrect filament profile - i.e. using a PLA profile for PETG. As an example, this photo above looks like exactly what I would expect a PETG print using a PLA profile to look like.
- Too low a temperature in the filament profile. Try increasing the filament temp.
- Part fan is set too high for the temp. Try either temporarily turning the fan off through the control console or inside the slicer and see if it changes the appearance.
If none of these work, have you checked the chamber temp of your printer. You will need to do this manually off course. I keep a thermo probe inside my chamber for monitoring prints who’s filaments like warmer temps like PC and PETG. I prefer to keep it at 30c or above for non PLA but YMMV depending on filament.
And of course, if you are using a filament known to be hydroscopic like PETG, may I assume you already dried it? If not, do so but to rule moisture out as a culprit, you will want to weigh the spool before and after drying. I’ve had cases with PETG as an example where I pulled 20g of moisture out of the spool and it made all the difference. I’ve also dried filament where there was little to no moisture which saved me from going down the wrong rabbit hole. Having the correct knowledge and not assuming moisture to be the culprit will save you a lot of time.
I may be pointing to an already checked point, but did you update the firmware? If so, did a printer recalibration afterwards?
If this is not the case, as @Olias mentioned, you must provide further information to understand possible causes and solutions.
Thank you for the reply! Sorry about that, yes the print was stopped at around layer 7. I am using Inland PLA which I have never had a problem with. The bed was level.
Here’s another print I just did, and It’s got some weird ripply layer lines.
Hello, yes I calibrated it after the firmware update…
I’ve printed this part multiple times before with the same settings, and it came out perfect.
At this point, I don’t really think the nozzle caused this, although, I have noticed that the nozzle makes lines on the print sometimes by rubbing it.
i assume there might be 2 reasons:
1–too low temp at nozzle, makes the filament is too hard to be extruded.
2–not enough extrusion. check if the nozzle is block, heat it up and use the pin to push any junk inside.
BTW, some issues on this machine are just strange. My P1sc printed perfectly, but suddenly, Z marks become very big, HUGE BIG, unbelievable big… I contacted BBL and there was only 1 suggestion, check WIKI and calibrate. But no matter what I do calibration. There was no improvement. I met this issue twice, and then i found just power off printer, AND restart STUDIO and even reboot computer, everything back to normal.
My feeling about my P1S, when it is good, it is very good. But when it is not good, it is very bad. And there is nothing user can do, because this machine is all around electronic, sensor, and software. I have 2 other old printers(marlin system), they have mechanical issues only, the most frequent issue is need to change new nozzle.
I did heat the nozzle up and extrude it from the app, and it seemed to be extruding nicely. Would you suggest returning it for a replacement?
I changed the infill to 20% instead of 15%, and it seems to be printing much better. I’m confused.
Looking at the example models – thanks for sharing BTW — there’s clearly something going on with your filament flow.
To rule out possible issues with X-Y travel, there is a simple test that one can do. Put more than one model on the build plate if possible. Then change the angle of one of the models between 30-60° then print.
If the patterns change on your model changes, this could be an indicator that one of your X,Y pullies needs to be cleaned or the stepper motor may be about to fail.
Note that if you place the model at 45°, only one stepper motor will engage and that will allow you to diagnose which motor or pulley associated with that motor has issues. To see this in action, power down your printer and move the printhead in a 45 degree angle and observe which belt moves versus which remains stationary. Don’t try this with the printer power on because the motors will fight you and you will do damage to them or the belt.
Okay, thank you! Also, not sure if you saw my other reply, but I reprinted the first model with 20% infill instead of 15%, and it came out flawless. Why would it be different?
Sorry, your right I missed that. Then don’t bother with the angle test.
Infill % and infill pattern will greatly influence the outer texture of the model. Perhaps that what you may not have realized when you printed it the first time. It’s easy to overlook when one changes one of those parameters. In fact, conduct an experiment and change the infill pattern and in a separate test, change the infill angle. Then observe your results. Keep the top and bottom layers to 1 for a more exaggerated view. Also, consider experimenting with the print order from the default inner/outer to outer/inner. That too can have a dramatic affect because the exterior walls will be printed first forcing the interior inward.
Ahh okay, thank you so much! I did notice that the nozzle does slightly scratch the print sometimes, usually not the top layer. Is there something I can change to eliminate that?
try printing other models to see how it is.
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I had the exact same issue as you trying to print a 1/4 of an AMS stand. 3 pieces printed fine but the last piece just wouldn’t print and kept failing and the failure looked like yours. I rotated the models and tried printing on 4 different directions but it always failed somewhere. I even opened 2 new rolls of filament in case it was a bad roll.
It “looks” like a clog failure, but there’s no clog in the nozzle, but I changed my hotend twice just in case. I also tried printing with 3 diff types of infill (the original was grid, tried cubic, tried gyroid) and they all failed at random levels and look like yours. You see some of those blobs? I’m pretty sure it has to do with that. The nozzle seems to have some kind of weird ooze at certain parts, which the hotend knocks into and either fks up the print or clogs the nozzle externally. If you find a solution let me know cos I gave up on the last bloody piece after wasting so much filament.
Hmm, yeah I changed my infill to 20% instead of 15%, and it prints flawlessly now… What % of infill are you using?
Had same exact problem… changed my hotend and it still persisted but not as bad, did a cold pull and now its all ok… i think the cold pull fixed it. Things can get stuck in the extruder barrel that changing the hotend wont fix, like dirt etc and the cold pull gets them out.
looks hard but its actually very easy to do 
my overall prints are way better now as well.
also make sure if you are printing PLA to keep the door closed and roof on… especially with large flat surfaces or if ironing. this makes a huge difference in surface quality as well.