I have had my P1S for a few weeks now and have tried different things. I have printed the gyros no issues now with different PLA filaments.
I tried today to print the same model with ABS, as I had the colour for that. You can see the results.
If anyone can shed any light on why this may have occured that would be great.
I cancelled the printing so the nozzle is in the same position. What do i need to do now to fix this? Is this just a clogged nozzle now?
Many thanks!
Hello @adikat2500,
Welcome to the forum.
Sorry to read about your issue.
It seems from the photo that you are facing layer adhesion problems.
If the issue persists, please let me know.
Is this model one of the excellent designs by the world renowned 3D designer @MalcTheOracle?
For filaments that require a high bed temperature (90°C and up), I find it helps to preheat the chamber with the heat bed for 10-15 minutes before beginning the print. That slows filament cooling and improves both plate and layer adhesion.
This is one of mine printed using BL ABS Red & BL ABS White using the P1S.
I have found they have a tendency to weld themselves together though as the tolerances are tight.
The surface must be clean and all the door closed.
I didn’t pre-heat, but, it isn’t a bad idea.
PETG Translucent and PETG HF work brilliantly if you are after and alternative to PLA.
You will see from this model I designed, I experimented with those materials. Many users have also bestowed the benefits.
Thankyou very much for the reply!
Very well could be not sure! I was given the file from a friend. Here is a picture I did of one using PLA.
Thankyou. I will keep that in mind if I am brave enough to try this again! I am terrified of breaking and wrecking my new investment.
Yes, use the unload feature, not normally used as the process is automatic when all goes well.
When it doesn’t, you use the unload to heat the hot-end sufficiently to allow the filament to be pulled back out.
A clean up is required of the hot-end if you had a blob on it.
Drying is often required if there is dampness in the filament, this can occur inside a sealed new spool, although I haven’t experienced that personally,
If your AMS is showing 4, adding new dry filament will not be a problem during an hour long print.
You should consider drying the silica you have in the ringer based on the instructions you received with the silica. I recently ‘baked’ mine as I rotated out my damp silica to dry again using my oven.
Not one of mine, it looks nice enough.
If you are so inclined, mine can be found in my collection of my many ranges.
Thanks! The unload worked, and I am on a new print. Speaking of that print, I am printing one of your gyros after going on your page! Hopefully it comes good 32% done so far.
A question about the silica though. I dont have any in there at the moment and I have all the bags that came with the packaging are they good to put in the AMS? and where do we generally put them?
Thanks again.
You’ll probably want to already place an order with Amazon for color changing Silica beads like these (sorry, German Amazon). And maybe a small bag of activated charcoal for the smell. 
Once your print finishes, look through MakerWorld for replacement silica dishes, additional AMS silica containers (with and without a cutout for a humidity gauge as well as edge containers), Spool Centre silica containers, additional edge containers and definetily AMS Savers.
That’ll help to keep with the time honored tradition of buying a 3D printer to print all of the improvements needed to be able to print properly. 
Bambu did away with a lot of that, but… well, tradition is important!!!
My set-up probably looks a lot like a traditionalists norm:
Except for the new dry filament but an hour isn’t that long and it won’t pick up that much water. 
@adikat2500 - that 4 on the AMS humidity isn’t good. The desiccant is pretty saturated with water (bet the packs are actually squishy if you check them) and will become a water source to hydrate filament that stays in there long term. If the mapping is where a 4 = 35-45% RH, it’s more like open storage of filament. I replace mine when the AMS first hits 3 now and even that is a bit high I think.
Absolutely agree 
But not surprising since
Hence my belated link to the wiki.
I dry my silica once the hygrometer goes above its minimum, from 10 to 11%. That is because it shows that the silica is sufficiently saturated to slow its water uptake and can no longer keep the humidity down.
The Bambu hygrometer is pretty neat nowadays, but I can not use it as effectively as the low-tech I am using. I do not keep track of its previous readings and it responds pretty fast to a lid opening.
For clarity I meant.
An hour long print of the fidget spinner is not enough time for the new filament to pick up any moisture in the AMS with a level of four.
I wasn’t recommending leaving it like that, thus the oven comments that followed.
I always assume it is wet. The effect of moisture on ABS is more significant than that of PLA. This doesn’t mean your filament is/was wet.
EDIT: don’t overdry it. A simple method is to weigh the spool before drying and compare it afterwards in the dryer. When it stops changing, you may assume is dry. The time depends on the filament material and dryer temperature.
I also agree that using silica within the AMS is a must. A moisture indicator is also helpful, although the BL can provide a qualitative assessment. It can be costly, depending on where you live, but it is worth it.
Thanks, that looks great. I will have a look at those extra prints.
