Printing onto a shim plate? Anyone done it

I have a project that needs fine branding details which X1 just isnt fit for purpose so Im laser etching a 0.5 shim plate. I am thinking it would lay directly on top of current build plate but the square of shim is only 130mm square so Im not sure how that impacts bed level routines etc
In summary, I need the x1 to print onto a slightly raised area. The laser etching will provide super fine detailing formed by the first layer squish

So I cant just pause etc as you do with filament change etc…it needs to start, being cognisant of the shim plate

Any help/tips would be appreciated. I run on orca or BBLS…in case studio just cant do it

Cheers

Why don’t you laser etch the already printed part?

It won’t affect the X1 at all as long as you cover the entire plate. The A1 has (or had) an allowable maximum plate thickness.

Any reason not to just laser etch a plate directly? Unless you are gluing it down the shim seems at risk of getting pulled up or displaced. There should be several plates compatible with laser etching, in fact you could use one of the stickers if they still sell them.

@User_631303032 lol…have you tried fine detailed etching on plastic vs bed squish…this is for business ie high reps in manufacture…needs to professional level.

its a branded facing ring on manufactured speakers. I did trials and it is the best outcome by a long shot. So I need to pump 100s, possibly thousands through but I want them printed as it is adequate and allows for variation as we iterate vs injection.

It would be pretty wasteful to use a whole plate every time when it only occupies such a small section. I was hoping to have a working border and a a placement jig. If it has reasonable hold being magnetic, the jobs like 5gms each

Would be cool to have something more peel and stick etc

I did think of one thing it might break. The nozzle wipe routine is expecting the tab to be the same height as the plate. You could glue a shim of the same height directly to the tab, or use some metalized tape.

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Yeah, good call
I have found some really cheap plates on Aliexpress. I think that might be the safest route…Ill just buy bulk eg 20 to start with and trial…

The short answer is: It will definitely work.

The long answer is that you don’t necessarily have to go through the effort of creating a shim plate to test this theory. Simply try these two experiments that I have tested myself:

  1. I used sparkle Gaffers tape, the kind you find in arts and crafts stores. The goal was to see if the sparkles and pattern would transfer to the underside of the model. It worked perfectly.
  2. I printed a single layer of an SVG image in one color, then printed a model over that single layer to see if the contrasting color would blend into the model. Again, it worked perfectly. The entire model lifted off the plate with two colors. Of course, you’ll want to experiment with thickness to play it safe, but it’s a cheap way to gain confidence that your technique will work.

Where I got this idea was from times I failed to pick off the purge strip and noticed multiple colors in the same area. I conducted these experiments while working with my non-AMS P1P to see if I could produce different patterns and colors. These are the experiments I ran just to see if the concept would work.

Special Note: I would not use this so much as a shim but rather as a plate overlay. Ensure the shim covers the entire plate surface. This will reduce the risk of the nozzle tip catching on the differential thickness between the shim and the plate.

Another thing you could try, in the spirit of “faking out” the bed-leveling algorithm, is to place a shim on the strategic areas of the build plate used for bed leveling. Then, pause the print manually before it starts and place the etched plate on top of the build plate, securing it with tape. I recommend using Kapton/Polyimide Tape. Allow the plate to reach the desired temperature and restart the print.

This is an exciting use of combining two unrelated technologies. I am looking forward to seeing your results!

Here are some examples of what I mean and the file for you to try out if you like.

Example of a 0.5mm first layer in red PLA with black PLA on top.

Example of “glitter craft tape” on a specular PEA build plate. I used this example to contrast a mirror image with what the sparkle impression would leave behind. The tape was less than 2mil thick, the same thickness as painter’s tape.

Click on these images for full resolution.

As the model sat(disc primitive) after print.

The model pulled off the bed and rotated to show what the tape and the underside looks like.

And of course a side by side comparison of the two techniques. Note that the logo was printed on textured PEI build plate.

The file I quickly cooked up if you want to try for yourself. The SVG was harvested from Google images.

logo slicing test 2A.3mf (124.1 KB)

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Thanks @Olias
You are always good with solid info!

That gives me some ideas for sure…really appreciate it. Will let you know the results

I actually noticed the possiblity when I did a print on a t500 that hung over the plate into the text warning…was a textured plate. When I lifted it off…it has an absolutely amazing finish suitable for client logos etc. I then merge this into the texture type plates available and your info…so that is next to test

EDIT: I think because of the longevity required, will still likely laser etch this onto an actual plate but great ideas to experiment with