We have got some OPY PA66 and printed a sample. It was printed on a smooth plate with Nano Polymer as glue … The print was very nice, almost perfect. Some say it looks like PLA, clean, no issues, no stringing etc. All that with generic profile.
After the initial test we triad printing a complex part with supports (same material). We were not able to remove the supports, impossible … it broke the part.
We have triad several times to print the same part with HIPS as support material. Twice the PA66 part got loos from the plate and eventually we gave up
Use ABS or ASA as support material for any type of Nylon. They dont bond to each other and come apart very easy.
The way I do it is to choose “Support for PA” as interface layer. After that you will get a pop up that will offer to change a bunch of parameters for you, click yes. It will change things like top Z distance to 0 for materials that do not bond. Then choose ABS/ASA as the interface layer and keep the settings.
HIPS/Support for ABS is a good support material for ABS/ASA not Nylons.
That is what I have been planing to, but I found that HIPS is very similar, costs less and can work as support, like ASA.
Our problem was not that hips glued to the PA, it was the PA that for some reason did not stick to the plate or to the HIPS even that we used the Nano Polymer.
The printing temperature of HIPS and PA are similar so it is not a temperature issue.
Another issue, even that we used both nozzles, printing time with two materials + prime tower is almost twice .
Nylon is notorious for plate adhesion issues, especially on longer prints. I would use a bit more nano polymer than usual and use brims. If you try more nano polymer, best to do that on a textured PEI plate as its more durable, the smooth PEI is easier to rip. Also there are some specialty plates for nylon like BTT Glacier.
I would have to take a look at the 3mf to figure out the speed issue. Make sure you are using “Standard” profiles not “Balanced”, the balanced ones are slow speed. Also the 0.12 and 0.08mm profiles are slow speed as well.
Any suggestion to a smooth engineering plate for H2D, mainly for Nylon etc…
We have ZERO problems printing PLA on Bambu textured PEI (original), just perfect. I purchased some third party plates. One side smooth, the other side textured. It was OK but not perfect.
For nylons the BTT Glacier has worked wonders for me. I print a lot of nylon and I have not yet needed to use nano polymer that I used with virtually all my nylon prints before getting this plate. It was custom made for nylon and has very good adhesion without adhesives but you can use nano polymer on it without worry of ripping if needed. The plates surface is a coating and not a sticker like smooth PEI, much more durable.
Just to make sure, the Fysetc I have should behave the same as the Glacier right? Just tried to print a PC Benchy but unfortunately it detached (the bottom is warped slightly). Should I use another plate for PC?
It does not matter where you buy the Glacier, the plate is the same from the same manufacturer. Aliexpress has the best prices usually, and BTT (the manufacturer) have their own store on aliexpress as well.
The Fysetc should be the same material (polyura) and style as Glacier, just different color. I have not tried one personally though.
About polycarbonate, its very warp prone like Nylon. I actually print mine on the Kdavi plate as I find PC sticks better to Frostbite than Glacier type plates. I also use the Kdavi with ABS as it works better, the Glacier is nylon only plate for me. I still get some corner curling with PC on larger prints. I also turn up the chamber to the max 65c to help reduce the warping a bit. With PC I always expect some curling so I dont use it often, its just the way the material behaves. If you find a perfect way to print PC without warping let me know, I have not found it yet with consumer printers. Even with ton of nano polymer on a smooth plate is still warps a bit.
Thanks! In the end it did print fine on my Smooth PEI with Nano Polymer applied, but then again I only printed a Benchy. I’ll try using the Kdeavi next time though!
So I gave that a shot last night and unfortunately it seems like that side of the plate is now ruined LOL. Almost impossible to remove the print and when it does half stays attached to the plate. Trying to heat up the plate to make removal easier but it has been a struggle so far.
I guess I’ll just use the smooth plate with Nano Polymer applied whenever I use PC again
Ah shoot yes, forgot about that! Now it’s too late but I’ll remember next time. I basically printed ASA on top of it and with some effort I was able to pull off both the ASA and PC remains.
Just for fun…try the textured plate with a 10mm brim with 0 brim to part gap. On a freshly cleaned plate with dish soap and dried with a paper towel. Not a cloth towel with fabric softener on it.
No glue
Im constantly printing with materials that others have issue with.
Im so sorry to hear that. What brand was the PC? I print polymaker polymax PC. It usually sticks really well (so does ABS/ASA) but when I flex the bed from one corner slowly it comes off. Unfortunately its always possible to run into something like this due to the additives they add to the filament. I ripped my Geco with plain black PLA from Soylin/Creality.
I tried printing ABS on the frostbite at Max’s recommendation and had to razor blade off the print because I could not get it off. Tried heating it, freezing it, everything. Luckily I’m fairly good with a blade and got it off without destroying the plate. Just use the glacier for anything except PLA and PETG.
I will stop telling people to try it … my apologies. Like I said I print ABS and PC on mine and even though it sticks really well it does come off when i flex the bed. What bed temps are you guys printing the ABS and PC? The standard 90 or higher?
I printed my print at 90C bed temp. The frostbite does explicitly say PLA and PETG only… My glacier on the other hand has caused ABS prints that were failing due to lifting, even at 105C bed and 65C chamber temp, to succeed at 90C bed 60C chamber. It really is a fantastic plate for it.
