We have got some OPY PA66 and printed a sample. It was printed on a smooth plate with Nano Polymer as glue … The print was very nice, almost perfect. Some say it looks like PLA, clean, no issues, no stringing etc. All that with generic profile.
After the initial test we triad printing a complex part with supports (same material). We were not able to remove the supports, impossible … it broke the part.
We have triad several times to print the same part with HIPS as support material. Twice the PA66 part got loos from the plate and eventually we gave up
Use ABS or ASA as support material for any type of Nylon. They dont bond to each other and come apart very easy.
The way I do it is to choose “Support for PA” as interface layer. After that you will get a pop up that will offer to change a bunch of parameters for you, click yes. It will change things like top Z distance to 0 for materials that do not bond. Then choose ABS/ASA as the interface layer and keep the settings.
HIPS/Support for ABS is a good support material for ABS/ASA not Nylons.
That is what I have been planing to, but I found that HIPS is very similar, costs less and can work as support, like ASA.
Our problem was not that hips glued to the PA, it was the PA that for some reason did not stick to the plate or to the HIPS even that we used the Nano Polymer.
The printing temperature of HIPS and PA are similar so it is not a temperature issue.
Another issue, even that we used both nozzles, printing time with two materials + prime tower is almost twice .
Nylon is notorious for plate adhesion issues, especially on longer prints. I would use a bit more nano polymer than usual and use brims. If you try more nano polymer, best to do that on a textured PEI plate as its more durable, the smooth PEI is easier to rip. Also there are some specialty plates for nylon like BTT Glacier.
I would have to take a look at the 3mf to figure out the speed issue. Make sure you are using “Standard” profiles not “Balanced”, the balanced ones are slow speed. Also the 0.12 and 0.08mm profiles are slow speed as well.
Any suggestion to a smooth engineering plate for H2D, mainly for Nylon etc…
We have ZERO problems printing PLA on Bambu textured PEI (original), just perfect. I purchased some third party plates. One side smooth, the other side textured. It was OK but not perfect.
For nylons the BTT Glacier has worked wonders for me. I print a lot of nylon and I have not yet needed to use nano polymer that I used with virtually all my nylon prints before getting this plate. It was custom made for nylon and has very good adhesion without adhesives but you can use nano polymer on it without worry of ripping if needed. The plates surface is a coating and not a sticker like smooth PEI, much more durable.
Just to make sure, the Fysetc I have should behave the same as the Glacier right? Just tried to print a PC Benchy but unfortunately it detached (the bottom is warped slightly). Should I use another plate for PC?
It does not matter where you buy the Glacier, the plate is the same from the same manufacturer. Aliexpress has the best prices usually, and BTT (the manufacturer) have their own store on aliexpress as well.
The Fysetc should be the same material (polyura) and style as Glacier, just different color. I have not tried one personally though.
About polycarbonate, its very warp prone like Nylon. I actually print mine on the Kdavi plate as I find PC sticks better to Frostbite than Glacier type plates. I also use the Kdavi with ABS as it works better, the Glacier is nylon only plate for me. I still get some corner curling with PC on larger prints. I also turn up the chamber to the max 65c to help reduce the warping a bit. With PC I always expect some curling so I dont use it often, its just the way the material behaves. If you find a perfect way to print PC without warping let me know, I have not found it yet with consumer printers. Even with ton of nano polymer on a smooth plate is still warps a bit.
