Hi, I started printing with Bambu White PC on an X1C. I’ve baked out the material thoroughly (80C for 8+h).
I’m using all stock settings with 0.16mm layer height and a 0.4mm nozzle, but I’m noticing a few things on the model I was trying to print:
The PC appears to be a bit stringy.
There are clear black burn marks in quite a few areas of the model with the white PC.
Anyone have recommendations on what to change from stock? First time ever printing PC.
Also, any recommendations on support material for PC? This design really needs supports, and the removal process was…pretty near impossible, honestly. Unfortunately can’t show the model but it’s something that really just needs the support.
Guessing Support W would be a horrible idea because of the PLA-based filament jamming in the cold end at the high chamber temp, and might try support G. Limonene is apparently no good with PC, so can’t use HIPS. I have PVA but it might fail when it’s in contact with PC at this high of a temperature. I saw a random breakaway filament on Amazon that claims PC compatibility. Polymaker also used to have a “PolyDissolve S2” product but it’s no longer available (and wasn’t in 1.75mm)
Well, while I’m still definitely interested in other peoples’ experiences, I already have a few answers for myself:
I increased retract to 1mm and 40mm/s on PC. Not sure how much it helps yet. Doesn’t hurt.
Support G appears to work pretty well with Bambu White PC. I might try PVA, and maybe HIPS and PETG as breakaway support interfaces.
I’m not going to try Support W.
Decreasing the print temp down to 270 after the first layer appears to impact part strength. Maybe not a great idea.
I personally definitely have a problem with PC wicking up the nozzle and building up a blob of PC. I have a feeling this is where all the burned bits and other defects are randomly coming from. I wonder if the nozzle’s a bit dirty (last time I took it apart, I noticed bits of burned plastic had been accumulating around the tip)
I haven’t used Bambu’s PC but I’ve printed a number of Polymaker’s Polymax PC spools at this point. Just used the default generic PC material profile on 0.2 lager height. (290C)
Prints come out damn near perfect and supports break away easily enough.
I I did change the support interface settings:
line distance 0 mm, 100% density
concentric pattern
This may not help with Bambu’s filament but it’s worth a try.
Thanks! Part of my problem is really that some of the geometry I need to print is not exactly easy and the supported surface needs to have a reasonable finish. I think it’d be difficult to remove supports even when optimized correctly, which is why I’m looking at support material options.
Also, I suspect Bambu PC is very very close to PolyLite PC.
I actually just did some normal support benchmark prints and the default settings for support came out pretty easily with the default settings. They were a bit uglier than usual so I might try your settings in the future. What’s the 100% support interface setting?
I don’t have Bambu studio in front om me atm. But it’s whatever setting that controls the interface between supports and the model. It creates a solid flat layer on top of the support structure. If you have trouble removing them increasing the z- distance between the interface and the model will help.
Hi there - Questions since I have been looking around and can’t find the answer.
I just got Polylite transparent PC filament, and I want to print some stuff on my P1S. Do you know if I have to dry the PC filament first before using it? And what settings should I use for BambuStudio? The Bambu PC filament setting shows the fan on and Polymaker recommends having the fan off for PC filament and also the generic PC settings on BambuStudio are a bit different from what Polymaker recommends (temp, flow ratio, etc.)
Last year I used some to print a large connector to attach duct work to a vent fan. It was probably overkill but I wanted it to be strong and heat resistant. I used the X1C because at the time my P1S was still a P1P. I know it’s definitley recommended to dry it first but it was a new roll so I chanced it. It was “Priline” brand from Amazon and I used the Bambu generic PC settings. The first try warped pretty bad and came off the plate so I used the Bambu liquid glue stick for try #2 and it came out great. I would say dry it first just to be on the safe side but I think the generic PC profile should be fine.
A cardboard box to contain the heat is all you really need for now, just use your P1S to dry your filament:
The Eibos Easdry is a good choice for a dedicated dryer. It is better than many others in its price range because it is ventilated and exhausts the moisture. Without ventilation the water just condenses on the walls of other dryers, leaving the filament in a damp environment.
You might want to budget $15-30 for a digital scale. Weigh your spools before drying and continue drying until the weight no longer drops to be sure you have removed all the moisture.
Hey, thanks for the tip. I read mixed reviews about using your P1S for drying. I will give it a try but also order a dedicated dryer. Thanks for the recommendation.
Using the printer as a dryer works and can get the filament just as dry as a dedicated dryer. The problem is that often the printer is busy drying filament when you really want it to be printing with another spool.
I have PVA and it’s been a waste of money so far. Every time I try to run it the filament breaks and I have to disconnect the tubes and buffer to find the pieces.