Thank you for all the suggestions everyone. So I tried out all those settings suggested I try different combinations of settings as well with the .8 mm nozzle and I switched back to the .4 mm nozzle. lol.
I had about six or seven failures in a row, and I got frustrated and gave up. lol.
I might try a 0.6 mm nozzle later on but I think I’m happy with the 0.4 right now I’m getting fantastic quality and more than reasonable print speeds at regular speed. Remember, I’m used to printing on a curiosity CR 10 which compared to this printer, is super slow.
I think the speed was my limitation. If I have to turn the speed down with a 0.8 then what’s the point I might as well just keep the 0.4.
As others have already pointed out, you gain thickness with the bigger diameter nozzle but it may be slower because it can’t melt the filament fast enough. The trade-off appears to be less horizontal layers, which would mean less seams = better integrity. It might be that the .80 diameter simply offers better structural printing and a little gain on time while forsaking print resolution. Also something to think about is that a wall with 2 layers @ .80 diameter might be stronger than 4 walls @ .40 diameter (each being 1.60mm) because of having fewer layers but thicker walls
I don’t see any point of using Bambu .8 nozzle simply because even with .6 nozzle I’m limited by flow rate. With default 12 mm3/s, print time for 0.3 layer height was the same as for 0.2 layer height. I’d to increase flow rate to 20 mm3/s to get any benefits on print time.
CNC Kitchen reviewed Aliexpress CHT nozzle for BambuLab X1C and it has a few advantages compared to Hardened Steel Nozzle. You can bump flow rate up to 34 mm3/s and still get very good surface quality and layer adhesion. Hardened Steel Nozzle can go only up to 25 mm3/s. Even with lower flow rates CHT nozzle has better layer adhesion than Hardened Steel Nozzle. I’ve ordered one to test it myself.
Hopefully, BambuLab is going to offer it’s own CHT nozzle, so that we don’t have to deal with aftermarket sources, which sometimes may be of lower quality.
Yes. It’s too bad I didn’t see this post earlier. I seem to have learned the hard way. Lol.
I still like using the .8 but I think I’ve landed on a .6 is my standard. I have a .4 and I’m considering ordering a point to for super fine detail work.
Yes, I own every official nozzle size. Default onces for me are 0.4 or 0.6 mostly, the 0.8 one is only for draft prints with only 1 wall or vase mode prints. It gives decemt quality with up to 1.5mm wall thickness, and saves some time that way or gives vase mode prints quite some stability.
The 0.2 nozzle takes super long to print, but the quality tends to be amazing, and can replicate really fine lines. Mainly use it to print small logos and text and other fine detail artworks. It tends to clog for me with Extrudr ASA pretty often (same for 0.4 nozzle, must be the filament), but PLA, PETG worked like a charm. Just do not use any filaments that does contain glitter, fibers or any other stuff in it that tends to clog.
Hopefully bambu is going to release X1C succesor with multiple nozzles. Having an option to print large prints very fast with .8mm nozzle and finish very fine details with .2 nozzle would be killer feature, which would help bambu to wipe the floor with all other 3D printer manufacturers.
Late reply, but I thought this will be useful -
Check out the “Spiral vase” setting. The description says - Spiralize smooths out the z moves of the outer contour. And turns a solid model into a single walled print with solid bottom layers. The final generated model has no seam.
