Hi everyone, I appreciate all the feedback in the forum already, but there’s nothing direct and solid in regards to using a .8mm Nozzle…
Its all opinion…I am looking for ereal world simple and direct instructions…
I have purchased an .8 mm nozzle and I’m looking for a specific instructions, in detail using bambu slicer or OrcaSlicer on what settings to change to make it print like a CR 10 does with an .8 mm nozzle.
I had a CR 10 previously and with an .8 mm nozzle that thing used to print super fast and have super thick layers. I can’t seem to get the same effect with this printer.
I’m looking for the same effect. Changing the layer height in bambu slicer or OracaSlicer doesn’t work because it forces me back to .56 mm layer height.
It’s impossible that prints take longer with an .8 mm nozzle than with a .4 mm …but apparently thats what the slicers are telling me.
Any assistance is appreciated.
Again, looking for PRACTICAL instructions or help - not scientific formulas or flow rate, calculations, etc. Just tell me what the change in the slicer if you know.
Appreciate it !@
–sam
Here’s the file I would like to print nice and quick fast I don’t wanna wait eight hours.
Usually max layer height should not exceed 3/4 of the nozzle diameter, it is theoretical but easy to retain (usually in real life a bit less than 3/4, 0.56 seems to be a good value twice 0.28 wich is the recommended maximum for .4 nozzle)
well you are probalby limited by your filament flowrate setting… in the previous tab change the select to flowrate
EDIT : yes with the Bambulab it is not that much faster to use big nozzle with the original hotend, because due to its limited melting rate (flow rate) of its original nozzle, you nearly have to print half the speed when you double your nozzle size, and as your wall are thinner with a smaller nozzle you finally print faster with 0.4 nozzle, it is all about flowrate and wall thickness…
Also with your 0.8 nozzle your walls are 0.8 thick and with 0.4 nozzle they are 0.4 thick, so with your 0.8 nozzle you need half the number of walls. (same for bottom & top layer count)
On your screenshot you see the last item to change ‘max volumetric speed’. I don’t know all the other preset settings for the 0.8 noozle. But what you can check with OrcaSlicer run the flow calibration and check where you still get ok results and enter (with a bit of buffer) that value in the filament setting.
Then you can identify if you gain more speed (depending on the material 12 seems a bit conservative based on my experience)
Well looks like Simplify 3-D does have a bambu labs profiles. It does not have AMS control built-in.
Oh well, I already started the print. Let’s see what happens.
UPDATE: Nothing comes out of the nozzle… lol…
So sing with simplify 3-D requires disconnecting the AMS
Yeah, I’m in a hurry for this particular print and I need it just to happen so I’m going to print one with the regular settings on .4 mm in orca because I know it will work.
After that I will mess around and see if I can get a speedier print. I will keep in mind everything you guys have said. Thank you so much for your help.
I’ll just have to wait to 7 1/2 hours.
It actually is quite simple. The printer can only extrude so much material, and if you hit that cap, you cannot go any faster, no matter what nozzle you are using.
To get faster print speeds you can do the following (some of that was already said here)
Increase the max flow rate in the filament settings. The generic profile is way too low, you can usually raise it at least to 20mm³/s.
For bigger nozzles, decrease the wall count, top and bottom layer count to match the desired thickness of the walls. Using a bigger nozzle will make the walls thicker and use more material if you do not decrease the count.
Increase layer height, wall width if you are not already capped by the flow rate.
Get an aftermarket hotend with a high flowrate nozzle.
Yes, that is exactly the setting. You should be able to raise it around to somewhere around 20mm³/s. If you want to find out, use Orca Slicer and perform a max flow rate test.
Start at 10mm³s/ and stop around at 25mm³/s.
It should greatly increase your print speed, depending on how high you can set the flow rate.
Perfect thank you. This is the information I was looking for. I mean everybody before you has contributed for sure, but this and the layer height setting or the two keys I think.
I’ll try it tomorrow.
My cup holder is still printing. …Four more hours to go. Lol.
Glad I could help. The problem with the Bambu Lab printers is that they are actually so fast that the motion system is not the limiting factor any longer, but how fast the hotend can melt the plastic.
If you want to push it further, there is also an aftermarket hotend that allows you to switch nozzles, and if combined with a high flow CHT nozzle, it pushes the limits by another 30-50% roughly.
