I have a few models to test out using several different wood filaments I have purchased. I have yet to print wood and have read about some of the challenges when using this type of filament with getting the print to stick to the bed. Several of the recommendations indicate to heat the bed temp to 50 and 70 ºC.
So I was curious if anyone who has printed wood with their X1 Carbon had any feedback on what works. Any specific configuration changes you implemented? What plate is recommended, Cool, High Temp, or PEI? What wood filament brands have worked well for you? Thanks!
Ive printed almost an entire spool of hatchbox wood PLA so far. Used default PLA settings and the cool plate with a thin layer of glue stick… basically identical to how i would print normal PLA. Every wood part came out exceptional. I even printed a 10ish inch high tiki totem thing. It cool 9 hours and came out great. support came off easily (did not use a second support material).
I will say that i now have some nozzle clogging issues after switching back to abs. maybe unrelated to printing wood. material still comes out but it just seems like there is a slight blockage preventing full flow. extruded filament sort of curls up around the end of the nozzle when purging now.
I bought Hatchbox wood pla to use on my fully enclosed P1P because I read your post jsonnett, it does print great! I did take it a step further and used Orca Slicer to tune PA and the Flow rate, my first couple prints did come out great on the generic pla profile with a pa (k value) test. To be honest I would have been perfectly fine with just the line pa test in Bumbu Studio. I have the .4 harden steel nozzle installed…I would imagine that you’re clogging is due to the wood pla filament. I plan on doing a few cold pulls with nylon when I switch filaments…if anyone is unaware of the cold pull method I would advise to get to know it and use it, I have gotten my Bambu nozzles so clean with that method you can see right down the heat break, out the nozzle using one eye pointing at a light source.
Since creating this post I have printed 12-20 different types of wood filament, lost track by now. From my experience any PLA with a wood content of 20% or less will do just fine with a .4 hardened steel nozzle without clogs. 20-30 % wood fill could go either with a .4 or .6 however I often will use the .4 and have no issues. 30% + such as Fillamentum you need to use a .6 or expect frequent clogging. That’s my rules with wood and it’s been working. Also, if you going to use the .6 nozzle look into switching the slicing engine from classic to Arachne which provides better results.
I also using wood pla to print models.
With the Bambu Cabon X1. But in the beginning I had no issues.
I mainly print with Eryone (20%) and Kexcelled (i think 40%) wood PLA.
THe Eryone light wood colour up to now gave no issues (finger crossed), but the dark wood colour is unable to get trough. Eacht time getting clogged, in the beginning not, now quicker and quicker.
The Kexcelled the yellow wood, doens’t even start up and gets clogged directly.
I’m using the original hot end of th bambu cabon X1, 0.4 hardened nozzle.
Do you have a idea how I could resolve this?
Based on you’re experiace with wood pla and the Bambu printers. What is the best brand you have experience with?
Also do you use the AMS? I understood that using wood pla , as it is abrasive, bambu and kexcelled confirmed it is better to use the back spool holder.
Do you know of wood pla brands , that allow to use the AMS without causing wear on the materials?
Wood that works with fine with a 0.4 Nozzle - Never had a clog with these using 0.4
Any of the Amolens
Numakers
Wood PLA with higher wood content that requires a 0.6
Fillamentum - 40% wood
Azurefilm - 40% wood
I would also like to mention I don’t really print with Wood PLA as much lately. In my opinoin you can re-create a better looking wood using normal matte brown PLA’s by incorporating additional techniques such as adding wood textures to the model and using airbrushing. If you interested you can see what I am referring to here. Also my reddit profile should have some examples of wood prints using some of the mentioned brands.
Hi Jan, Fillamentum should be available in Europe however its 40% and on the expensive side. Are you not able to get Amolen in Europe. While its middle of the road as far as looking like wood it prints very clean and will not clog in a 0.4 nozzle. Generally, higher wood content the more wood it will look however higher content such as 40% introduces many additional challenges including stringing, clogging, bed aheasian. Also, I run all wood through my AMS. I added these to my AMS which helps prevent erosion of the AMS from abrassive filaments. https://www.printables.com/model/329082-bambu-ams-feeder-protector-adapter
I have also heard good things about these foam based filamnets. It’s my understanding they have no wood in them however use a foaming methods to simulate wood. I have not tried these myself.
Hi Jan,
I live in Europe (FR/DE) and I use Filamentum Timberfil, Formfutura EasyWood and Azurefilm. 3D Jake has most of them and Azure you can buy directly from their website. I like these a lot especially Timberfil. So far I used them on my Prusa and Sidewinder with a 0.6 nozzle without any problems. And if the Bambu has a break long enough to change the nozzle I will try that there as well
IMHO a wider nozzle also makes the surface smoother, at least with wood.
Actually no idea for small prints. I use it for big parts like lamps and speakers, so I go for the biggest layer height possible
I print at the lower side (+3-5C) of the temp the manufacturer proposes. But maybe you want to try printing a temp tower first? Helps me always, when I try to dial in a new filament.
I use no retraction on the sidewinder, but normal PLA settings on the Prusa. And the Bambu might have its own ideas again… The stringing I get is anyway mostly like hair and I can brush it off.
I would like to have some advice and help in printing wood pla on my Bambu Lab Carbon X1.
I’m trying to print wood pla miniature doors, but i’m still getting blobs on the surface of my doors, therefore looking not nicely:
I had to change my nozzle from 0.4 to 0.6, as the 0.4 nozzle started to get clogged after a while.
So now using the 0.6 nozzle I tried all these setting improvements:
nozzle from 0.4 to 0.6 (no more clogging for now)
temperature lower to from 220 - 190C
max volumetric speed from 12 mm³/s to 8, then 4 mm³/s
slow down outher and inner wall printing speed from 120mm/s to 60mm/s
put on ZHOB spriral 0.4mm
put on detect thin walls
put on avoid crossing walls (but with standard values 0 mm or %)
filament in dry holder 20% humidity
even with all these changes I still see blobs on the surface. I did not have this with the 0.4 nozzle configuration running ad standard 0.25mm specs at 200mm/s, but those specs are not even standard in the 0.6 mm nozzle configuration in bambu lab
The only changes I make for wood is 0.6 on higher wood content filament and change the engine to arachne when using 0.6 which can improve quality, Also most wood I run at about 210 and it’s pretty clean on 0.6 nozzle.
The main help was to print not at the default speed for a 0.6mm nozle being 120 or even lower I think.
On the contrary, I increased all speed levels to the standard speed of a 0.4mm nozzle (250 mm/s i think). That resolved the issue.
Furthermore, I improved it I hope a bit more with zhob 0.2, not transferring walls 100mm, detecting thing walls and having “dry” filament of 20% RH.
On top of that, i used the new calibration feature to have an accurate K value
The other calibration feature to calibrate flow did not work well on my printer. As I calibrated at 220 the flow calibration. He told me to put the flow factor at 0.71. But when I afterwards printed at 190C (wood), I had way too much undernutrition. So resetting it to 0.98, got the job done.
Finally, it was a day or 2 search, but we got the job done.
I’m having some issues with printing with wood filament. I’m using a spool from 123-3D Filament 1,75 mm oak wood PLA (Jupiter serie). It has a 20%-80% wood-pla split.
I can’t even get a benchy out of it on my X1C with AMS. I have those AMS savers printed. Flow calibration goes well and then it goes on with printing the benchy. Then just fails on the first layer LiDar check.
