Problem printing PET-G

I am trying to print Spectrum PET-G HT100 with no success. It will not adhere to the print plate.
I have tried the High Temp plate, where it just slides after printing 2-3 mm in height, also the calibration strips are very loosely attached to the print plate. Have tried with glue stick which causes it lose grip instantly (even when doing calibration). Tried many different temperatures for nozzle & bed, no fan used for first 5 layers. And this plate is the most successful.
Tried Engineering plate, but that was not allowed for PETG. Same for Cool plate.
Tried PEI textured plate, with almost no adhesion for both calibration and part, just slides during first layer. Adhesion is so weak that print can be moved by barely touching.

Does anybody have suggestions that may help?

I was having trouble with PETG sticking to cool plate or engineering plate. Was suggested to me to use this Vision Miner product and thankful because I have not had any adhesion issues since. I chose the 50mL bottle and it will go a long way before it runs out but I guess it depends on how much you print.

2 Likes

The engineering plate (probably with gluestick) would be my recommendation.

You can change the filament profile to permit printing on the engineering plate (just give it a bed temperature for that plate - Spectrum recommend 100-110C).

On the bed temp though, what did you have it set to for printing on the high temp plate? Default for PETG is 80C IIRC which likely is not hot enough for this PETG.

That may be one cause. I have temporarily dropped this filament (will return to it later) as I have some PLA projects. I have been told by the seller that this is a difficult filament.

For comparison, I’ve had very good luck with eSun brand PETG on the PEI plate. And some luck on the Engineering plate; about 20% of the time it’ll lose adhesion there.

However, if there’s very small detail that gets printed first, and in isolation, these almost never stick properly, in which case I change the printing order to outside/inside/infill and print with a brim.

Update: now that I re-read, i see you’re using some special “HT100” PETG? That might behave completely differently, in which case the comparison is useless. Sorry :confused:

Update2: According to PET-G HT100™ - Spectrum Filaments, they’re suggesting quite hot bed temperatures: 100–110ºC. Doing that?

I did not have it that hot, around 90C, found that gluestick was useless at that temperature.

What are your first layer speeds ?

I would suggest slowing the first layer down 50% of where its currently set at and keep the fans off for the first 3 layers

This filament also caught my eye due to increased thermal resistance.

It has huge problems with all Bambu plates. But I tried Wham Bam plate with a bit of glue and it works OK. Prints do stick (not very well, but enough to finish the print).

eSUN PETG prints very well on the textured PEI plate without glue. Try setting bed temp to 80 - 90 °C and reduce first layer speed to something more sensible like 20 - 30 mm / s. In extreme cases I use BambuLab liquid glue on the PEI plate.

Standard PETG (including eSun) doesn’t go up to 100 C thermal resistance. This thread is about Spectrum HT100.

After trying to print large part with HT100, it warped anyway on Wham Bam as well. I am trying without glue now. It also needs heated chamber. So will experiment with this. This material acts more like something else and not PETG.

Here you go, this is PETG HT100.

These will make some nice hotend airducts for another printer I am working on.

I agree that the HT100 probably is a very different variant of PETG.

That looked very nice. Can you tell me your settings and which build plate you used?

I have managed to get very good prints with HT100.


OrcaSlicer profile: https://www.printables.com/model/526297-bambulabs-orcaslicer-spectrum-ht100

Looks like an interesting material! Does the 0.5 kg spool work with the AMS?

Yep, it is plastic one, fits nicely.

The material is not very rigid, though.