Benchy and other items have the drooping edges as shown in the picture. This happens on edges like on the Benchy and also first layer over internal fill. Started happening all of a sudden, I’ve been printing nearly a year. I ran a complete calibration as if new and that didn’t help. I guess it is possible I changed something somewhere but there is nothing I can see.
I think this may be Overhang Wall and Internal Bridges, but not sure.
What you’re showing is most likely material not cooling correctly or too hot out of the nozzle, or perhaps moisture(least likely)
You show the problem but you leave out important details.
Does this happen on both PETG and PLA? For your photo example, which filament is it?
Have you calibrated the filament, most importantly, temperature?
Have you dried your filament and verified the presence or absence of moisture by weighing it before an after? Placing trust in factory sealed or simply saying “I dried it for X hours” is not enough. Weigh it before and after drying to verify whether or not moisture was present. This should be a basic diagnostic step to rule out moisture.
Depending on the filament, there can be a number of issues that can cause the material to not correctly bond. However, it’s important to do the first troubleshooting steps above.
Here’s an example of a lesson I learned the hard way. This is PC filament. I was going nuts trying to figure out what the problem was until I dried the spool that was factory sealed. I’ll let you guess which one of these is the print from the dry filament.
Hey Olias, thanks for responding. That print was using Accreate PLA, properly dried (didn’t weigh before and after this time). It happens with PETG as well. As far as calibrating, I did a little, but this has suddenly cropped up on Bambu filaments that were working properly.
I tried running a temperature tower and it was only these overhangs, the rest prints properly. To me it seems like Orca is not doing something right for these overhangs. In the picture below, see how the ceiling of the doghouse looks fine? No drooping. Just the overhangs.
It sounds like you’ve narrowed the issue down to potential overhang problems in the slicer. Here’s what I’d recommend:
Start with a simple overhang model to minimize filament use. Then, experiment with these two variables in no particular order:
Fan Speed
This is a filament-profile-specific setting and easy to tweak. Drastically change the fan settings—e.g., 0% until a 70° angle, then 100%. The goal is to test extremes. If there’s no change, fan speed likely isn’t the issue. If you see improvement, fine-tune with values like 50%, 60%, etc., to find the optimal setting.
PHYSICALLY check the fan on the print head. The sensor in the P1 is not the best, and it cannot reliably detect a fan problem. I have had cases where the print head is knocked, causing the fan connector to come out, and it just doesn’t know.
What it looks like is happening in insufficient cooling to solidify the plastic on overhangs.
Olias - My global settings are identical to your as well as the cooling settings.
Without changing anything, I printed the overhang test and the problem starts at right about 50% as seen in the first picture.
The second picture is odd to me, the circled area shows that it starts printing the overhang correctly, then it droops until the next layer, starts correct then droops again. At right about 70% it completely fails on every layer.
I have an unrelated print that will be done in a few hours then I can start tweaking settings. Even if the tweaks work, I’m baffled as to why the defaults stopped working.
UPDATE - Looking at the slicer drop-down, it is showing that the fan speed is to remain constant throughout, but the Speed and Volumetric Flow both increase abruptly at 50%. See 3rd picture.
I think you’ve done a thorough job narrowing down that it’s not a software setting. Thanks for posting the TEMP screengrab—it takes a lot of guesswork out.
I didn’t see you mention whether these results are duplicated with other filaments, but assuming this happens with other filaments, it may be time to consider potential hardware problems leading to false temp readings.
You’ll want to remove the silicone sock and clear any embedded hardened filament, as that can sometimes throw off the temp readings. One experiment, if you haven’t already tried it, is to raise the nozzle temp to 280°C or higher to see if it changes the outcome. If it does, then temperature is likely the culprit again.
If temp is an issue, the easiest thing is to reseat the connectors inside the tool head just to ensure that there’s good contact. If that doesn’t work and the software settings did not work, if you have a spear Hotend lying around, try that and see if you get different results. If you don’t have one lying around, it’s probably a good idea to get one. Go for the full assembly, trust me, it’s worth the extra few buck to not have to assemble the wires and/or thermistor and ceramic heater. At least you’ll know it was assembled at the factory.
