So I just now received the new Wham Bam Carbon Fiber build plate for Bambu Lab printers, and am reading over the detailed requirements with zero instructions whatsoever (good god Wham Bam doubleyou-tee-eff!) So I’m compiling my findings here for the community to use, correct, and improve:
Printer Profile: The Wham Bam Carbon Fiber build plate needs to ‘heat soak’ for 5 minutes before printing, you can automate this by inserting a line of G-Code into a modified printer profile you’ll select from Bambu Studio when using the build plate (note: this makes the build plate basically incompatible with Bambu Handy since you cannot change printer profiles from mobile)
We’ll need to add a line to ‘Machine Start G-code’
- Click the edit icon to the right of your Printer name under ‘Printer’
- Click inside the 'Machine Start G-Code section
- Scroll down to ;===== heatbed preheat ====================
- Add the following line after M190:
G4 P600000 ; pause for 300,000 milliseconds.
- Click the save icon and give the new profile a name
We’ll also need to create custom Filament Profiles for each filament we want to use with the plate:
- Select a filament from the list Click the edit button to the right of the filament name
- Refer to the chart that accompanied the plate, or download from here: (Wham Bam Does not publish this chart that comes on a printed sheet anywhere on their website, ubsurd!, here’s a pic of it below)
- In this example, we’ll set up Bambu Lab PETG-HF for the plate using the settings from the chart, see screenshots below for the orange items to change.
- Save the filament profile with a new name (e.g. PETG-HF Carbon Fiber)
Go print!
epilogue: I don’t know why I’m giving Wham Bam another chance here, their customer service and documentation is abysmal, half of the links on their own site don’t work, and the bambu lab section of their support is so out dated it references the kickstarter of the X1C as ‘new’. Nevertheless, I want to test all of the mods and options for our Bambu Lab printers, and this is one of them.
Addendum: most of this info has been added to their sales page (but still not in their support section) so I’m glad to see they are catching up with customer interaction - I will say though that I’m glad to hear they have good 1:1 customer service from others here, I’m judging them by their public facing support and lack thereof, maybe it’s my own social anxiety but I don’t feel I should have to contact them to ask for this information
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I just let it heat soak and printed. Nothing fancy.
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So far only one filament didn’t stick and I’ve been having issues with that color since I bought it. BL PETG-HF Light Grey.
ABS sticks very well, used liquid glue since they recommend it. Released well.
PLA is fine with the stock no fan for 3 layers.
Will try ASA later and my dreaded PA6-GF later.
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I guess we all have different experiences. When i needed support from them they responded quickly and went beyond what i was asking. Perhaps you caught them at a bad time.
Thanks for the settings, btw. They have worked well. I did end up dropping temps for the HF down to 230 to get outside perimeters to look the way I want.
Ditto.
Went back and forth with them doing different test prints, pictures. Ended up ok. I’m sure others have positive experiences as well.
I got in on the end of the pre-order. I purchased it primarily for non-PLA as I have almost perfect success with the BBL textured plate. Initially I tested with PLA and could not get it to stick, tried a few different spools and all the suggested changes to the slicer and couldn’t get a single point to stick to the CF bed so I gave up. I’ve never used glue on the textured plate and was hoping the CF would work as well, sadly disappointed…
I got it to work but gave up on it too. I wanted a smooth PETG surface without glue stick for face-down prints with a nice face- this is not the plate for that at all, for me it worked with playing with temperatures for way too long, and when it did work I would see what looks like under-extrusion gaps and the carbon texture - just looks sloppy upon close inspection. I prefer garolite still, and this plate is collecting dust.
I went back and forth with Wham Bam over this plate. I was told to test several filaments and never came up with any instance that didn’t require glue. In the end it was recommended to use glue on pretty much everything.
I really wanted to like the plate, and I do use it for ABS and occasionally PETG. I can tell you that increasing temps and giving it a chance to heat up helps. Ended up bumping temps about 5 and the heatbed a little more as well.
I wanted it to be a plate that replaces several plates, but in the end it became just another one.
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I hear ya, same I wanted to love it too - right now I’m liking the SuperTack, I’m still not 100% abandoning my garolite plate, it’s still my go-to for smooth PETG prints without glue, I haven’t tested PETG on the BIQU Glacier yet, but as much as I like it’s texture, if I want texture I’ll use the textured PEI plate, so the SuperTack is trying to win me over, we’ll see lol. It’s like ‘THE BACHELOR’ up in here, or ‘THE BUILDPLATE’ game show, lol, who will get the scraper rose!?
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I just got this plate before coming across this thread. I’m using PETG HF Light Grey, but it refuses to stick no matter what I try—except for using glue.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to improve adhesion?
PLA seems to stick to the plate just fine, but PETG HF Light Grey is giving me trouble.
I had semi-decent luck with these settings, though comparing to the defaults they are not much different:
I’ve experimented extensively and printed approximately 1kg of 200x200mm first layers to fine-tune settings for achieving a perfect first layer without any damage.
Here are the settings that work best for me:
- PETG HF: Bed temperature at 80°C and first layer nozzle temperature at 260°C.
- PLA Silk+: Bed temperature at 70°C and first layer nozzle temperature at 230°C.
- PLA Basic: Bed temperature at 70°C and first layer nozzle temperature at 230°C.
- TPU for AMS: Bed temperature at 80°C and first layer nozzle temperature at 230°C. Note that while this setup ensures a flawless first layer, the material adheres very strongly to the bed.
These configurations have consistently provided excellent adhesion and surface quality in my prints.
To achieve consistent results, I always preheat the bed for 10 minutes before starting the print. This step significantly improves bed temperature uniformity and adhesion. Additionally, I have not experimented with layer cooling settings, and I follow WhamBam’s recommendation of no cooling for the first four layers.
It’s also worth mentioning that I use the Nozzl Wiper instead of the original wiper, as the latter doesn’t function as intended. If the nozzle isn’t clean, it can negatively affect the first layer quality and ultimately the entire print.
Given how useful these settings are, especially for those using carbon fiber print beds (Whambam), I suggest making this post sticky to help more users achieve reliable and high-quality prints.
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