H2D has a significantly more powerful cooling system, and the default cooling settings are more or less too strong (yet not strong enough in some cases) for quality parts. Cooling is a game of balance, you get better overhang or bridging sometimes, but you also might get shrinkage layer lines or warp.
Here is my modified version of printing profile for Bambulab PLA Basic:
- Order of walls: Inner-Outer-Inner
- Bridge speed: 100mm/s (it’s usually good enough for shorter bridges) The reason you want to speed it up is that bridging at 50mm/s would cause significant layer time change if you have a horizontal surface.
- Outer Wall speed: 60mm/s (best quality)
In filament profile:
original:
Issues:
60% fan speed at 100s layertime seem too high for large prints (for such a strong cooling system and the cold weather here where I live). But I don’t want to change it any lower for now without more testing.
Slow printing for better layer cooling <=4s looks unnecessary, but you can keep it on for small parts.
Fan speed for overhang 100% is too high for large surface internal bridging. I reduced it to 80%
Aux Part Cooling Fan 75% is definitely too high for large parts. In fact, aux fan isn’t something that is necessary if your chamber temperature is low enough (my chamber is only 27C when printing PLA as its winter now in Australia). I reduced it to 10% to keep the air flow but not blow on parts.
My solution here would not solve everyone’s problem, but hopefully it would be helpful to some. Remember it’s a game of balance, just like to add support or not to add support, you do have to tune it yourself at least for now.
Maybe in the future firmware they would introduce something that allow us to set the target chamber temperature ourselves. A 27C chamber temperature is definitely too low for highspeed printing even for PLA.
(Ignore the layer lines on the top 2 gridfinity boxes. It’s caused by me foolishly enforced scarf seam on high flow nozzle)
