Hi Devs
The long 40W Heater is great for throughput with large nozzles as it has a much larger melt zone than a V6 or Revo.
But this increases doubles required purge material.
I would like to have the option of a nozzle with a longer heatbreak and a shorter Hot end. Which would keep the nozzle tip in the same position, but would half the purge material required and potentially speed up AMS changes
If you are using a 0.4mm nozzle, how much power does the nozzle use in each speed mode?
Hypothetical
If at it’s fastest the 0.6 uses 40W, the 0.4 20W, the 0.2 10W
Could you shorten and reduce the heaters to reduce the waste and speed up MC/MM prints?
based on some testing that was performed by @wolf_on_air ( at discord ) it seems the 0.4 nozzle does use the 40W heat at full potential
also his testings says that the 0.4 is at max capacity and that makes the 0.6 and 0.8 obselete
so by decreasing the melting zone it most likely will also decrease the potential speed it has now
on other side, if it can halve the purge value then it maybe is a nice trade off if you print multi color as now the most time is wasted by purging instead prinitng
for example , half print speed but half purge time makes it print a lot faster as you only use the speed for a certain value, it could increase print time with 33% even when it is slower
so i do like the idea if you work a lot with multi color
Is that max Thermal capacity? Or Max mechanical capacity?
It’s a mix of variables that contribute to Max throughput.
The 30W E3D Volcano Nozzle gets outpaced by Bondtechs 20W CRT and E3Ds own 20W REVO 6 .
One applies heat from all directions, not just 1
One has more surface area in a smaller melt zone.
And it doesn’t matter how hot you can get your plastic, you will never have a motor powerful enough to extrude 1m^3 through a 0.4mm aperture in 1 second.
Bambus custom 40W nozzle hasn’t been benchmarked yet so it’s hard to compare.
Also, I’m not 100% sure the change process they employ. Do they cut the filament, then yank it out with the AMS, or do they withdraw it from hot end and then trim the tip only when neccessary like a prusa MMU2.
I’m hoping E3D make a Revo kit for it with their 40W heaterblock.
It would be amazing collaboration if the webcam could identify which nozzle is plugged in from the colour band and stop you running g-code for the wrong nozzle diameter. Then eject filament, cool the nozzle, position it at the front and prompt the user to do a nozzle change.