Hi,
I would like to buy PVA to make removing complex support structures much easier.
Hate to break it to you, but…
AMS Unsupported Filaments
TPE, TPU, PVA, Bambu PET-CF/ TPU 95A and other brand’s filaments that contain carbon fiber or glass fiber.
I have been using 3dxtech Aquatech x1 advanced usm with amazing results paired with cfpa.
i have used the polymaker polydissolve S1 in the AMS with no problems
I have also used all these with no problems in the AMS.
PolyMaker PolyDissolve S1 = PLA will also peel off parts most of the time
Atlas Support Form Futura = PLA will need to soak in warm water
Helios Support Form Futura = ASA
3dxtech Aquatech x1 advanced usm = ASA - PETG - PA
================================
YXPOLYER Breakaway Support - Not a PVA = PETG at this time
Vielen Dank für Deine Aufstellung! Hast Du das “Helios Support Form Futura” vorher besonders getrocknet oder verwendest Du das Filament dauerhaft aus der AMS? Ich würde mich über Deine Hinweise zur Handhabung sehr freuen.
Ganz herzlichen Dank!
I have had atrocious experiences with an ancient Tarantula and PVA.
So with the X1C, I tried the Fiberlogy BVOH with the Fiberlogy setting recommendations and print temp at 195° with a very well dried spool in the AMS and… was blown away 
It does not work quite so well with PETG (lack of adhesion to PETG), but with PLA I have had great results.
Edit: You may also want to search the forum for imcompatible filaments for easy support removal: PETG for PLA and vice versa. Not sure about supported “floating islands”, but for standard overhangs it is a cheap option for easy support removal.
Hello,
I keep all my pva filaments in a sealed dry box with desiccant beads in a mesh bag when not using.
If the PVA has absorbed moisture, you can dry most pva filaments out at 50 c and a few hours also check with your filament brand for drying recommendations.
I have used the ams with the Helios and pva with no problems. I keep the speed low @ 30 to 40 mm/s on interface layers.
My favorite is the 3dxtech Aquatech x1 but not cheap stuff.
Hello 3D Tech, hello Eno The Tracian,
thank you very much for your informations!
I’m going to show myself to be a complete newbie to this topic: What time periods are we actually talking about that BVOH or PVA absorbs water? Hours, days or weeks?
I want to print model trains for the garden in ASA and I have quite “interesting” window cutouts, overhangs, etc.
The AMS with water-soluble support material would be quite helpful. 
P.S.: I use Ikea 365+ boxes with desiccant in pods for storage. I also have drypods with desiccant in my AMS.
In my experience we’re talking a few hours. Although I had good success with PVA and BVOH in the AMS when you make sure it’s pretty dry in there in the first place. I could store those materials for a period of 1-3 days before having to redry it.
However your miles may wary…
It might be a good idea to replace your desiccants with fresh ones before putting PVA or BVOH in the AMS.
I have my printer in the shed, so pretty humid overall environment. So I tend to dry filament frequently (stored in vacuum bags with desiccant insides sealed boxes) and load my AMS with as much desiccant as I can to keep the humidity strictly below 10%. If it hits 11%, I know the desiccant is too wet to counteract moisture and needs to be dryed.
In the AMS, a very well dryed roll of Fiberlogy BVOH is OK for anything between two days and a week. The good thing is that with increasing roll humidity defects become visible in the filmanet so I know pretty quickly if it is still OK to print. And of course, it also allows me to see when drying has had sufficient success.
For your use case, you may however also consider cheaper methods like PLA support for PETG. I have only recently started with that but I like the results so far for simple overhangs.
Odd since bambu store:
Cautions for Use
ONLY used for support interface
Not used for printing models alone
Dry out before use
Remove the support structure promptly
AMS compatible
There are conflicting statements here and there about PVA AMS compatibility (see other replies).
At the end of the day, there are just two things that make a filament physically compatible or not with the original AMS:
Generally all Carbon filled filaments are deemed too abrasive, as they have been shown to wear down the PTFE tubing in the original AMS. Initially, they WERE touted as compatible but this was changed. To date, Glass fibre filaments appear to be listed as compatible.
Softness. The original AMS has a filament feeder arrangement near its output. The pinion in the that holds a “death grip” on the filament meaning that softer materials such as PVA being continuously run back and forth through that system get beaten up pretty bad.
I am guessing here but the AMS Light does not have that “death grip” mechanism. Each filament is fed using its own “more friendly” feeder. Also, the filament is not retracted all the way back and forth to the roll, like it is on the original AMS.
This could be a source of the confusion in the documentation, since I would imagine PVA could very well be compatible with the AMS Light but almost certainly not the original AMS.
PVA (I’ve only used the BL PVA) is completly usable with the AMS as long as it is dried.
I’ve used it in the AMS with no issue. Using it as a support material without the AMS would prove impossible.
LOL, that was a year ago, and Bambu has since changed their mind. That quote was from their website… not my words.
cheers, hard to keep up with bambu
It seems a bit odd to make a dedicated support filament that cannot be used in multi material mode on your own printers. The inclusion of ‘PVA’ in the quoted list might just be ‘generic PVA’, whereas Bambu PVA is likely to be formulated to work in AMS. Same as the special TPU that they make for AMS use. That’s my guess.
Ive used e-SUN pva in my ams just make sure its dry dry dry before using and it works fine.
