Trying my hand at some 3dxtech pvdf filament. I am using an x1c with a g10 plate and vision minor. I also have a chamber heater in it.
chamber gets to low 50sc and bed is set to 120c.
1st print didnt have a brim and print temp was set at 235c because I forgot to change it.
This got me a good first layer that stayed flat on the bed.
3rd I adjusted the nozzle temp to 265c for first and 235c for the rest.
The first layer is great. no visible warping. The issue now is the corners. They are terrible.
I have run kfactor calibration and flow cals. The top and bottom layers look good. its just the corners and I am not sure if its a heat issue or a speed issue or something I missing all together.
This stuff is known for warping, soI have all the fans off but its also known to really hold heat which is why I was turning the nozzle temp down so much after the first layer.
It seems like you checked all the right boxes, G10 build plate, Chamber heater and nozzle temp, so you should be set up for success. At nearly $200/spool for that material, it’s unlikely you’ll find many here who have direct experience.
Having said that, these pictures look exactly like the affect I got when I had moisture in the filament. Here’s two examples of what I mean, one Bambu Silk, the other PC Filament which is hygroscopic and needs drying but Silk PLA was not supposed to need it. You can judge the side by side for your self. The PC is the clear filament and the silk is Gold. Right side is after drying.
Although the data sheet for PVDF says that this does not need drying, you can’t be too sure and at the very least, drying the filament at 65c or greater for 24 hours is a diagnostic step you can check off your list. If you don’t have a dryer, you can use your X1C’s drying mode but that will occupy the printer for 12 hours. But before you do that, weigh it before and after you dry it to confirm a weight change, if it is lower in weight after drying that’s a clear indication of moisture presence. Before I got a dedicated dryer, this method worked for me.
The alternative was to use the kitchen oven but at $200/spool I would not risk it with your expensive spool, lest you earn one of these trophies(PETG).
Remember, even though the filament may be high temp, no guarantee the spool is, as I found out the hard way.
Forget the K Factor calibration, that’s a blunt instrument and placebo effect that isn’t granular enough. For proper calibration, utilize Orca Slicer if available to you and walk through their calibration suite. If you are running firmware past 1.08 then you’ll have to manually slice and transfer the GCode file to the printer via SD Card because Orca stopped supporting Bambu after they pulled that stunt back in January forcing all onto Bambu Connect.
