Has any one made a profile or printed with PVDF?
I haven’t tried this on my 3D printers yet, but I do know about it. If you’re working with a manufacturer that produces it, it could be helpful to check if they’ve conducted any in-house testing.
Start with Generic PP filament and change the settings and save it as PVDF
Base Line Setting to start with:
Nozzle - 255C
Build Plate - 120C
Initial layer thickness - 0.24mm
Layer height - 0.2mm
Volumetric flow rate 3.3
No cooling fans unless you start using a higher volumetric flow rate
Heated chamber 50c if you have one
Nano polymer adhesive
Carbon fiber or Garolite combined with a metal steel plate is recommended, as this filament tends to warp and lift standard flex plates unless your parts are small.
If you decide to use this, let me know how it goes. 
Been tinkering with development of settings and print profile.
Hoping for some feed back to test with…
As that bency is about 6 bucks per print. I have been working with small test cylinders. Contacted manufacture and they didn’t have any specific feed back that wasn’t all ready listed on the main page. The filiment is this: FluorX PVDF, PVDF-HFP (copolymer)
Additionally, I just noticed when I switched to the .8 nozzle, the studio removed my custom speeds that had them all set at 55 max, but with my settings I calc that I should have 10.06~mm/s speed limit
To get it to stick to the bed:
Garolite (G10) smooth surface, and a PVA glue stick is a must. Had the best luck applying cold, then heating to 120 then cooling. After that it sticks reasonably well with out reapplication. I also must use a flat disk or other larger birms to prevent base warping. No noteworthy luck with PEI plates.
This are my print settings in the filament (direct copy from my notes:
//Non listed values default
Filament:
Type: PP //generic base to work from
Vendor: 3DXTECH
Filament Ramming Length: 10
Flow Ratio: 1.05 //testing, above 1 seems to make no difference in test cylinder
Density: 1.71
Shrinkage: 96 //Correct when flow ration was .94
Price 268.21
Softening Temp: 120 //When set to 151 seemed to elephant foot the hot end feed
Recommend Nozzle Temp: 255 //both
~
Chamber Temp: 60
ALL Bed Plate Temp: 120
Nozzle: 255 //both
~
Max Volumetric Speed: 3.3
Cooling:
ALL fan speeds set to 0
Advanced;
Filament start G-Code: //Default
; filament start gcode
{if (bed_temperature[current_extruder] >45)||(bed_temperature_initial_layer[current_extruder] >45)}M106 P3 S255
{elsif(bed_temperature[current_extruder] >35)||(bed_temperature_initial_layer[current_extruder] >35)}M106 P3 S180
{endif}
{if activate_air_filtration[current_extruder] && support_air_filtration}
M106 P3 S{during_print_exhaust_fan_speed_num[current_extruder]}
{endif}
PVDF being amorphous really holds onto the heat, thats why the chimney and small details look that way. if you want to do fine details you may have to adjust your minimum layer time to give it time to cool down. I haven’t printed PVDF on a bambu yet, but have used it in the passed and it had a rather steep learning curve to get it right. For our application PPGF was way easier to print and still gave the chemical resistance we need.
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Yup figured that out. Now have 3, 8 dollar benchys lol. Finally was able to make a profile. Never added the responses back about it since their seems to be no users interested in printing with pvdf.
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Hey, as it turns out, I am interested in printing with PVDF and am trying to.
I am having the same issue as the chimney building up more narrow parts, did the profile you created resolve that, and if so, would you mind sharing?
I just got my first roll in. Its expensive stuff which is why I am sure most people are not going to want to use it. The average user on here doesn’t get past pla and petg.
Anyway, I am totally interested in anything you guys have figured out about it. I have a g10 plate with some vision minor adhesive I was going to use but I dont have any print settings yet.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4XbOHv_9gg]
The good stuff is around 3 minutes in
I first used the p1s but the warp was so bad it was pointless. I switched to the x1c turned the bed to 120 and let it bake with the chamber heater will it was at 50c in the chamber.
I tried a few test prints. Mostly some calibrations. Flow rate is sitting at 1.0791 and I turned the max vol speed down to 12mm. print bed is 120c with a darkmoon g10 plate with the visonminor applied.
The test panels started to warp up the corners even on the x1c.
I am going to add the resister to my p1s to get the bed temp up to 130c and see if that helps. Got to get this first layer to stay down.
Ill also try to reduce the max val speed again and see if I get any improvement.
So I know this is not a popular topic because the filament is very expensive and you really need a reason to want to print with this stuff. I have been trying my hand at it and here is what I have learned.
What you need
Your going to need a chamber heater. A bed that goes to 120c (so your p1s is out), and I have been using vision minor to good success. I also have a g10 build plate.
Calibration
Everything you know about calibrating a filament is not going to work with this stuff. I started with all the recommended setting from the users above and all I was doing was getting melted prints.
I started going through the calibrations, temp test, print speed flow and k pressure advances etc that look great on the test and would be terrible when I used it to print.
Most print settings are going to be based on the model you are printing. If you print something small, like a 25mm cube, your going to have a hard time unless you print slow and increase the time between layers a lot for cool down.
I have been adjusting print temps by one degree at a time. No temp towers for this stuff. A 2 degree change in temp can melt your model if its small or has a small part to a large model.
Because of the price of the material you would think let me start small but small is not the play. Mostly because the material will melt itself before you get anything from it. My worst print settings on a 25mm cube have given me some of the best prints on larger stuff.
I also found that this stuff does not like hard corners. - still working to figure this out.
Once you get the temp right
This stuff loves to warp. Use a brim and make sure the chamber maintains a consistent heat. consistency is key here. Keep the door closed and all the fans off. Bambu doesn’t have an option to turn the exhaust fan off, so once the print start you have to manually turn it off in the device - fan settings.
This stuff SHRINKS and I mean a lot. On a 122mm print the model shrank by 11mm on the largest OD of the model.
You might think, ok let me add that to the shrink % but that would be a bad idea because the model does not shrink evenly. Creating 4, 6mm holes all right next to each other, each shrink different amounts based on how much material is around them. So the outside holes shrank more than the 2 inside holes because there was more material on the outside pushing on them.
I have been doing a print and measuring the shrink per feature of the design and then going back to my cad model and making changes. The good thing is the material is consistent. If it shrank x amount from what I want. I make the hole that much larger and it it works out.
Not ideal but until I figure out a better method that’s what I am going with.
I’m playing around with this stuff for a client, and over all I get good ok results… x and y not much shrinkage… on X2D… Max vol flow 1.5 mm… I’m getting massive warp at bottom even with brim… but after that its darn near perfect… SO adhesion on edges with 0 gap on 5mm brim is rips away… but seems to stay at about a nickel size in the center… on a 25x25x25mm cube… Anyone have any updated results? I ordered nano adhesive… Using engineering plate currently with hairspray.
I have been away from this topic for a minute apparently. What are you calling an engineering plate? There’s a whole lot more to it than just the word engineering plate. Like all my tests have been with garalite plates. Without knowing your plate tight based off what you said you do not have large enough Burns incorporate them into your design do not rely on the studio. The filament loves to curl on thin layers. So a ratio of three to five on any plate contact is a minimal to start with also don’t be afraid to add two layers in a two to five ratio. I printed a few things with these and what I can tell you is the edges will curl if the edges curl and make it to the main structure you are screwed. I also used run-of-the-mill glue sticks to adhere to the plate. But what I do is I smear the plate I heat it up and melt it and then I allow it to cool before I add it
The actual plate, is Bambu Labs Engineering plate Bambu Engineering Plate | Bambu Lab US Store pre Q-R code version. Not sure if that makes a difference… Do you have a link to a “garalite plate” you use? Or would any garalite plate work? I’ve never used that type before… And I’ve been printing since 2012… Not that that’s a metric… but I haven’t had the need for advanced materials such as this before… When you say don’t be afraid to add layers, …. what exactly are you referring too? Layers at the bottom like 5 layers or rings on a brim? based on guidance directly from 3dTech I made the infill 3d honeycomb to mitigate shrinkage and warp… but not sure if that is helping… If I can solve the bottom warping I think my settings are pretty darn close.
first basic test on x2d, which i put settings back to. plate temp 100, flow 1.5 mm^3, fan at 0 after layer 3 fans at 40… Camber set to 90
plate temp 120, flow 3.0 mm^3, fan at 0 after layer 3 fans at 0… Camber set to 60
kinda side comp…
0 gap brim cube ripped away
Also re-read your earlier posting and was cruzing over the data. Also ordered a G10 Garolite Plate…
That plate I do not know material what it actually is, they leave out the details like jackwagons. The plate I used was https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCXKCY2F and you will need a donor plate to attach it to.
The layers part.. I see you used the birm tool. Do not use that, you will need to draw it in or add it in the slicer; a physical object that is attached. The birm tool does not have the strength needed to withstand the curling on cooling. What ever your print height is, make sure it has 2 layers thick for the anti-warp part. If you see from one of my first photos, the small stack has a large circle, that was added in the slicer to the part I was testing on. A circle works much better then a square or any other sharp corner object.
The bottom warping looks to be securement. If you add the large circle to the object, it should hold it more square.
A major problem I ran into is how well it holds heat. The holding heat part will cause more warping, especially on the smaller objects. If you add another layer line on-top it before it cools enough, it causes the distortion like what was seen in the smoke stack on the benchy photo. There was a filter on the slicer I used to see layer times and adjusted feed and fans on short time lines to help correct this. It takes a lot of fiddling to determine what works for you. You can also see the side wobbling on one of your squares, that was a heat holding issue when it applied the next layer and the under layer started to ooze out under the weight and new heat added from the above line.
Ah, wish I would have dug deeper on amazon… As that is way cheaper than IDE Garolite G10 Build Plate Sheet for Bambu Lab X1 X1C X1E P1P P1S A1 – IDE 3D as the shipping was almost $30…
And the part I need to print is actually more cylindrical so… I’m swapping over to a cylinder shape… And I added a .6mm high disc going beyond the diameter of the cylinder… retesting my current settings. If that doesn’t work. I’ll need to try glue stick while I wait for this new plate to show up. So with the G10 film you purchased to put on a donor plate… So what do you set your machine to use? if I end up getting going with that version..
Thank you for the tips thus far!
Additional edit: I don’t believe I had got the stack perfect still, cant remember. I had printed the parts I needed and moved on to some PPS builds. Cost of the filament has been prohibitive for just tinkering again.
I would pick a plate you don’t use, but I edited my “engineering’ plate as I don’t have one from bambu. I attached it to a damaged PEI plate I had. I use run of the mill elmers school glue paste tube on the plate.
While the plate is cool, I smear it all over and rub so I can see the whole area and little more then I intend to use is covered. Then I max out my bed heat on my X1E at 120°C. Once its melted, I shut the bed off and let it cool back to the normal bed temperature I use or cool all the way down; depending if I am prepping or in a rush. I have noticed better success with the glue after 1 heat cycle.
I do not have any experince with that plate you ordred, but i suspect with it being G10 it will work just fine. Mine has a bit of a thermal delay from the plate to pei to garlite wonkeyness. Also my plate, came with a cheap sticker so I either have to turn that feature off or tell it resume.
I added my last known good print settings with cooling. If its not in the screen shots, its default. Should also note this is for a 0.8 nozzle as I had better luck printing in this size. Also these settings require the advanced tab in the top right to be clicked.
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I will check those settings out and largest size nozzle we have for the x2D ATM is .4 but going to order larger as it does make sense to go bigger.
I just got in some Vision Miner nano adhesive… and it stuck very well using my last settings. So now I might need to tweak it slightly as it seems to be slightly mushrooming on the top. But I’m pleased with the results currently on Bambus Engineering plate. I’ll try again whenever the g10 plate arrives.
Thank you for your input!
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Honestly impressed with how well you got that to look. I haven’t tried other glues, the one I used was left overs from my son’s back to school 
.
That mushrooming at the top looks like the last 4 layers? Its probably related to the sold fill on it. Im sure some minor tweaks and you would get that smoothed out.
The added berm like you did is picture perfect. Really impressive on the no curls on the outer most line. So the way you have it, the outer 1 layer is the curl up layer if the stress gets to high. The 2 layer section should stop the curl past and add the force needed to stop the bottom from deforming to.
I can see the glue line, out of curiosity, on that engineering plate, did the glue stay after it was the print was removed? I have done about 6 prints with out re-applying on the G10 plate, it may have done more, but I needed to print some nylons; so I cleaned it off.
Speaking of G10, I wash mine with hot water and dawn dish soap, then use denatured alcohol (I make my own as a usable byproduct to removing ethanol from my cheap(er) pump gas) to prep clean before I did the glue. Unsure if that was critical, but I did find a better clean with alcohol. Unsure the effects of rubbing alcohol. I prep if its been out of the enclosure for a decent time before nylon prints.