Ive been trying to find a point in using maximum volumetric speed, instead of using speed adjustments.
If the maximum speed is already reached by filaments, which have a pretty low flow, than each speed would be the same? Lets do some math: Using a filament which has only 12 mm³/s with 0.2 layerheight results in a maximum speed of 143mm/s with the standart line width of 0.42. So every speed would stop or be even slower than those 143mm/s with higher line width. So why do we have those presets? Even the 0.2 presets doesnt reach the maximum volumetric flow of the bambu pla with 21mm³/s. The speed would stop at 233-250mm/s while the inner wall got 300 mm/s.
Another thing is how the flow and speeds are working with each other. The normal way would be to dial in your printer, find a reliable speed/flow ratio and for higher speeds dial in PA. When dialing in PA while not having fine tuned the other values, there will be a room for many errors. Just going for PA with the line or tower methods will result in a half tuned outcome.
It would be a great help if someone could clarify this for me.
Bambu X1 as a machine, not just filament presets, is optimized to get best quality results for inexperienced or even first time 3d printer users. For experienced 3D printer users, X1 default settings are too conservative and can be safely adjusted to get much faster prints with still very good quality.
Download and install Orca Slicer (found on Github and Google search - fork of Bambu Studio but better), use the calibrations off the top menu bar.
Read and follow the instructions to a “T”. There are little details in there that if you miss it, it will void your attempt to tune your filament to your printer.
Yes, I did so. Did you ever try to print with a smaller size than 0.42 lw using a 0.4 nozzle? Go way down and opt for some other adjustments like a lower flow, lower height and so on. The results look by far better than the calibration guide with the only disadvantage that vibrations are more visible because of the thinner extrusion. The reasons I need for PA at high speeds are underextrusion or bulging corners. Im trying to find a way between "thin extrusion" and dialing in PA perfectly. The people from Klipper tells us using the tower method with a high layer height to get a high volumetric flow/speed for calculating PA. The tutorial from Orca seems only halfway done right. But that is another story. What I want to learn/know is the fact why the Bambu presets are using speeds, which they dont ever will reach (or maybe with some heavy tuning) and why speeds and line widths are not all the same. Using the maximum volumetric speed setting will result in breaking down all speeds to be alike. So using different speeds on different places would be obsolete. Its like setting all speeds to 150 mm/s or 250 mm/s. Before using the X1C my favorite way was to reduce the pressure, finding the right line width for the nozzle (no nozzle is ever manufactured the same way and got tolerances) and reducing the flow because ALL of the low speed printers got way too much flow for PLA. I think the last fact is because 3d-printing was developed by using mainly ABS with a higher shrinkage than PLA, so many people made the experience ABS was looking better than PLA. Bambu changed the game with such high speeds and the whole extrusion thing needs to be rolled up again. I dont want to find advice, what Im searching for is knowledge. I need to find a way to understand the extrusion itself and the behaviour behind it. So I hope that here is someone who can tell me where to get that information.
The 12mm^3/sec is just a standard setting. You have to tune your filament settings to find the actual max for the filament. For example, I have a PLA+ that I have set at 18.
In addition the max flow will be different for different filament types. But, you can still use the .4mm standard print settings regardless of the type of filament. Think of the speed settings as the max that the printer can do with any filament, and the max flow rate setting for each filament as a way to adjust a print profile without having to have a different profile for each filament.
Hey Julie, as you can see I dont have any problems dialing in my printers. Of course I can go for a max flow rate test and adjust it. But that doesnt tell me why Bambu used speed and line width presets, which never reach the speeds dialed in. Bambu-filament does have 21 mm3/s. So the max speed would be around 233 mm/s with 0.2 layer height and 0.45 line width. The preset is paradox. Inner wall is configurated for 300 mm/s and you wont reach them until your material can flow up to 27 mm3/s. Im searching for a reason to understand if Im overlooking something, didnt see the whole concept or its just bambu where they did not really think about their preset. For mine settings using line widths of around 0.31 mm and layer heights around 0.1 mm its no problem and can go even faster, which is useless in points of cooling and strenght. Lets say it straight to a point…im a printing nerd who wants to squeeze out every last drop in fdm printing and want to understand the concept of it as good as I can.
i was questioning the same thing when i tried to calibrate my pla silk filament. wich volumetric speed i should use, is there a padron for 0.4mm nozzle?
With Orca there is a test tool for finding out the highest possible flow. My question is if one speed for all parts of an 3d printed object ist really usefull. For example a slower outer wall leads to better wall surfaces. Also low speeds with lower line width to better top/bottom surfaces. Infill can be printed faster. So why should i use just one speedsetting? Maximum volumetric speed is imo useless for getting really good quality prints. Its just good for easy geometrys and fire and forget prints. So we could say its more about a beginnerfriendly tool maybe?
That is exactly what it is marked as. However the advanced user will find a way to put the capabilities to the test and maximize it, which SoftFever and others have done with Orca Slicer, and many users on this forum have found tips and tricks to get more out of this printer.
Someone (not here) has printed a 6:13 minute Benchy that looks real darn good.
Getting above the advertised speeds and quality is possible.
That sounds reasonable. Do you have some links or keywords to search for? If we talk about the p1p 6:13 benchy…its crooked af😅 but for a speedboat i wont complain.
