but I am guessing there is something I am not fully understanding.
If I am only printing a short (but wide) model, can I install the blocker to prevent the filament from being cut by the AMS, but still use the AMS to feed the filament for the print? Or do I have to do some trickery such as adding a pause after the final layer to un-stick the lever and remove the model manually so the AMS can cut and retract the filament?
We can help you figure this out but we to figure out the problem first. Do you want to print a model that would need the full 256x256? The exclusion zone is that small area in the front left corner that is marked on the build plate. As long as what you’re printing will fit anywhere else on the plate you don’t have to worry about anything.
I did eventually figure out that white zone was the exclusion zone, and was able to find the lever arm on a spring in the top left of the device that u think pokes the extruder to initiate a cut at the extruder.
Specifically i am trying to print this (the 240mm version)
The largest size (with the largest holes) won’t fit on the plate without clipping that zone. I can’t shrink the model because then it wouldn’t nest nicely.
I did try a negative object to cut a chunk out of the model to see what that would look like but the slicer wouldn’t show me because it computes the negative object after the error prevents me from going forward (this is a less then ideal solution).
I have only been printing for about two weeks so I am still in learning mode!
Any help (or tutorial I’ve missed) would be super helpful to me
You’re welcome, not a problem. It’s so confusing to me why they picked a size that just BARELY comes in to the exclusion zone. Most people go out of their way to create models that fit on the Bambu print bed. So if you scaled all the layers down to like 95% it wouldn’t fit correctly?
That would have worked if I didn’t print the other layers first without realizing the issue (I only sliced one plate at a time so the error didn’t show until it was too late)
I agree 240mm is an odd number to be on a 256mm print bed. You’d think he’d go bigger if he was ignoring that zone or a few mm smaller to avoid it.
Indeed. The short version is that it is a 256 if you don’t use ams. Ams eats a small square of that space up.
I could disable ams, remove the PTFE tube so I can feed a color in directly, move.my printer to another location to have enough room to install and use the spool holder l, print the one object and then undo all of that to get it all setup again where it is with the ams again.
I am hoping someone is familiar with the process and knows a shortcut.
My guess is disabling the lever and then putting a pause in at the end of the print before the ams would cut and retract the filament or restore the cutter lever to it’s original position.
Print the lock out thingy off the wiki. Print or buy a PTFE splitter that you can leave installed. I’ve only needed to do this once. I personally wouldn’t try messing with pauses, as it worked flawlessly on my first try.
Only from the external spool. The AMS really needs the cutter to work, unless you ok with stripping the hotend to remove the molten plastic that it will draw out since it couldn’t cut. Really not worth the risk on an expensive machine.
I printed a y splitter (Y-splitter connector v.2 - no hardware! by SirPrintAlot - MakerWorld), fed that up and around to point at my AMS so I can use the AMS bearings to hold the spool and let it rotate the spool freely (since the back of my printer is close to the wall and wont hold the spool out back.). Used a zip tie to hold the angle of the PTFE tube to be angled back, rotate the AMS so it is more in line with the PTFE Tube (Also disconnected the AMS just to be sure it didnt do anything I didnt want.
