When you post one of your designs on say Etsy or others online retail sites, so you include your print settings, or just the stl? I created a rather large item, a base unit with drawers for the Xtool F2 Ultra, and had someone message that I didn’t include print settings. I assume everyone using their own printer settings since they are not restricted to using one filament or a specific plate. In addition the settings I used were for prototyping, for fast speeds and as little infill as possible, so I don’t actually have “Finished” printer settings.
Yeah its basically impossible to include the settings for every kind of printer, i mean you could include a bambu 3MF incase they have a bambu machine, but if they are using literally anything else then all bets are off
One type of buyer uses a 3d printer like a dishwasher - no education on it, so they need their hand held through the process, and benefits from an included 3mf profile, even if its just mostly default.
The other type will throw away the settings immediately and use what works for them.
In my experience, there’s a huge spectrum of experience levels with users. Some may be beginners. For that reason, I think that it’d good to include the print settings that were successful for you. Given that users may have different slicers, even just a list of some key settings could be helpful.
Including these settings could decrease the chances of print failures - a better customer experience and fewer support messages for you - a win-win.
OK, which is better, the actual 3mf, which would also have my paint settings, as well as the infill, brim, support and any other settings I use, OR, a pdf listing the important settings?
the people that want the 3mf want less mental overhead, and I am being zero percent ironic when I say that translating a list from a pdf to fields in the slicer is a bridge too far for this buyer.
its a little unfortunate that all slicers now produce 3mfs that are less and less interoperable between slicers. Rewind 2-3 years ago, 3mfs might complain on a different software, but would still function. Now sometimes they dont. Set it up and save on a stock single nozzle printer for the best interop.
I sell tabletop game figure STLs on a site called myminifactory.
For FDM, we supply an STL file, and bambu 3mf for color and print orientation. However the model should be parted out to be supportless, with an obvious orientation, and for non-AMS colour. Outside of the bambuverse, AMS/MMU units are not yet common. (Though snapmaker is helping).
For SLA resin, we supply the base STL, and a pre-supported file, as resin supports are hard. I pay a 3rd party service to support the resin files.
This is exactly what I did. Broke the parts into separate STL files and included a full dress 3MF. I also produce finished products with dedicated files that I don’t share.