Preface: I do a lot of small functional prints using a 0.2 nozzle with small layer heights (I really don’t use the 0.4 nozzle much which is why I bought the X1C because of the great prints with a 0.2 nozzle). My parts usually require a brim with a 0.0 Brim-Object Gap to keep the print on the plate. During the design process I will print initially in PLA to refine the design, then use ASA, ABS, PETG, etc for the final print.
The smooth print plates do provide better Z height accuracy over the textured plates.
Here is what I have learned using all the print plates from Bambu. Do not use the “textured” plates (Engineering Plate, Textured Gold PEI) when using 0.2 nozzle at any layer height. It’s darn near impossible to remove the brim out of valleys of the texture.
The “Cool Plate / PLA Plate” is really the only way to go with 0.2 nozzle with PLA, otherwise it WILL clog up even with the door open and the top off (I’ve gotten really good at unclogging a 0.2 nozzle) with heat creep or going from PLA to an “engineering” filament. I really need get another 0.2 nozzle and have one dedicated to PLA and the other for other filaments.
The “Smooth PEI / High Temp Plate” is really needed for any other filament besides PLA, again with the 0.2 nozzle.
For maintaining the smooth plates. Forget IPA for cleaning them, just use a good dish soap. And don’t even think about using anything abrasive. I thought using a “Mr. Clean Magic Eraser” would help with micro scratches for adhesion. Nope. Just made things worse. So, I don’t understand why Bambu now recommends sanding with >600 grit sandpaper.
Because of my experiment with the “Magic Eraser” messing up the surface I have had to replace the surfaces by just ordering the replacement sticker sheet (I also put a deep gouged in one of plates when scraping off a print when my cat jumped up next to the printer and startled me).
The printable “Film sticking fixture” tool is great for alignment, but horrible for putting scratches on the surfaces when trying to get the spare sheets to stick. Still working on how to modify it to reduce the scratching.
One thing I did figure out with all the surfaces (smooth or textured) is the first thing to do is properly clean them to get any of the manufacturing chemicals off. This is the one time where IPA is needed.
- Thoroughly wash with dish soap and towel dry.
- Fully wet down the surface >90% IPA and scrub with a microfiber cloth (repeat at least one more time)
- Wash again with dish soap.
- Thoroughly rinse and towel dry.
Now 95% of the time I don’t need any glue to get parts to stick. But every-now-and-then when I do have issues, I have found 3DLAC spray adhesive to be superior to Bambu’s glue stick or liquid glue (it does wash off with soap and water, you might have to do it a couple of times). It only takes a light misting of 3DLAC on where the part will print to get it to stick and have perfectly smooth bottom surfaces.
One thing I have learned is NEVER put glue in the purge areas (back right corner, front edge). If you do, it gets increasingly more difficult to remove the purge lines.