I am relatively new to 3D printing and my P1P has been my first 3D printer. I’ve been running it for several months now without issue. Now I am planning to replace the .4 stock nozzle with a .8 hardener one and I wonder if replacing and run calibration test is enough or should I do some kind of test after it. I already located the wiki page for that operation
I am changing to a bigger nozzle because I want to print a couple of models in Sunlu Marble filament, but didn’t use marble yet neither. I saw that there is no “generic” marble profile in the Bambu Studio app, any recomendations on this as well considering I will be printing it on the .8 nozzle?
Larger nozzles are used, at least in the past, to print large models more quickly.
Today I rarely switch to 0.6 at all - the only reason is that there is still TPU (less pressure to get it through the nozzle)
So the reason for 0.8 is somehow completely incomprehensible to me - if you had said that you wanted to go down to 0.2 for a vase in order to be able to print more walls loops, I would say that 0.2 nozzles print very slowly…
The problem for tightness are flanks and layer bonding errors… if there are more walls loops, the probability of a “deviation from the ideal state” meet each other and occurring through all walls simply decreases.
why do talk about: “deviation from the ideal state” since nothing in the world is perfect - it’s just a question of how closely you look at. There are so-called monocrystalline structures, e.g. in turbine blades, but even there are “deviations from the ideal state” - the question is just how much you enlarge to find deviations and when a deviation becomes an error - an error indicates an unacceptable deviation from the task whiche the product needs to hand.
So you always will have the moste errors in the layer conections or lateral connection from one run to the next, i.e. from loop 1 to loop 2 - more wall loops conections in order thightness error do meet each other at the same point as less as possible in layer or run…
By the way: Starting and end points errors are also often reasons for leaks. So always start the run at a different point so that the next run closes the deviations of the previous one as much as possible… an this is an answer which i normaly charge on a high rate
Just make sure you go to the Device tab in Bambu Studio and select “Printer Parts” and increase you nozzle size and steel to the appropriate selection.
I think your response is overly harsh like it would be completely stupid to use a 0.8mm nozzle. And I don’t agree with you. You might be right in a very general setting but especially for vase mode, the OP is quite on the right track in my opinion.
Getting a jar watertight is much easier with a single wide extrusion than with several thinner wall loops. Vase mode has the benefit of a continuous spiralling wall instead of distinct layers. So the start and end points you mentioned (almost) don’t exist. But vase mode doesn’t make much sense with more than one wall loop as suggested by you.
If you want a wall that is 1,2mm wide, a 0,8mm nozzle seems like a great choice. And the wider extrusion helps to prevent problematic defects in the first place. For water tightness, significantly wider extrusion than nozzle size is a well accepted recipe.
Finally the OP neither wrote that he wants the nozzle for faster printing nor that the model has to be water tight but just for wide extrusion in vase mode.
Coming back to the initial question:
I think the only value that I would expect to really change is the K value for pressure advance. If you have calibrated that, I would redo the calibration. For everything else, I wouldn’t bother. As you haven’t used the filament yet, you probably didn’t calibrate the K value neither.
And for presets I would start at regular PLA and see if you experience any problems.
Believe it or not - I feel like a complete idiot several times a week. It really surprised me why 0.8 - Do I missing something? You add. the infos and i got the something into my trick basked which I can try if somthing do not works at all…
Maybe really too harsh. So I will add your opinion to my mindset - low yield strengths. Yes, in this case single runs can be beneficial. As long as free shrinkage is guaranteed. Then the setting must be 100% correct because the smallest deviation from the required output is then one too many.
There are always so many answers that it is sometimes difficult to find the right one - try and see the results. The whole game is anyway based on the reproducibility of comparable tests to finde teh right settings.
