Hi all, I switched from the silica desiccant to the alumina desiccant which is significantly better. To recharge it, it needs to be put in oven for 8 to 12 hours at 200-250F. Instead of having to empty my AMS and storage tub desiccant containers I want to print them in a material that can be in the oven at those temps for that long so every that way I never have to empty and reload them with the desiccant. Based on the info on the website I think any of the PA/PEHT stuff will work but this will be my first time using a more exotic filament and would like some feedback from those who know more.
Canât find a delete option but this is a moot point, I read the temp wrong it is C not F.
The 200-250°C range is the same range most filaments get melted to when pushed through the nozzle.
I guess your edit made you understand this, so, this is for those that done layer, so they can understand the problem more easily.
Shoving the vast array of filaments in the oven will melt them as they are designed to melt at that point.
Even at half this point the filament would begin to deform under its weight as it begins it melting journey.
Unless you have the X1E (not the X1C) or the H2D, it is unlikely you have the ability to print any material due to the requirements such materials require.
The parameter you care about is the âGlass Transition Tempâ . This is the temperature at which the plastic goes from being rigid to being soft. You need to pick a filament with a transition temp that is higher than your expected environmental temp. For a 250ÂșF oven, you need plastic that has a transition temp north of 120ÂșC.
There arenât going to be many that fit the bill. PC has a transition temp north of 140ÂșC so it would work fine. PETG by comparison is only 80ÂșC, and PLA is only 60ÂșC.
PEEK is about the only filament I find that might survive at 200-250 °C, but even the 350°C maximum nozzle temp of the H2D is lower than the recommended 360-440°C for this material.
Bambu PPS-CF has a Heat deflection temperature of 264c and a melting temperature of 284c. So if you put it in the oven at 200C(or maybe even 225c) I would think it would be fine even with a little variance in the actual temperature. 250C Oven temp might be too close as the temp will never be exact.
A lot of the this will also depend on the the design of the object. If it puts a lot of stress on the part it may show signs of heat deflection at a lower temp due to the stress. Heat deflection values are based off of stress.
EDIT: Polymaker PPS-CF is way cheaper on Amazon for $69 per 0.5kg if you only need a small amount. https://amzn.to/4kTbOAT
I saw that on the website, but it says you need the X2E or H2D to print it, and I have an X1C. Iâm guessing it is related to nozzle and chamber temps.
Thatâs correct, I wasnât sure which printer you had. Without a heated chamber you would probably get a decent amount of warping once the parts get higher than about 1" and it wants to lift off the bed. Not to mention the nozzle print temperature is right around 320*C on my H2D for PPS-CF. So the X1C is out.
