Best way to be sure you have a filament dialed in is to run a set of calibrations and then save that for the future. Much better than something someone else shared as there’s a lot of small variations between machines.
I always add the color and nozzle size to the name, as settings for a .4 nozzle don’t work on a .6 …
Bambu Studio is amazing. OrcaSlicer is that same software with added features like additional Calibrations, specifically what you were posting about.
Did you read the post I linked?
Here’s the Calibration page I mentioned. Using it is drop dead simple as he has the settings perfectly set to run each test with 3 clicks. Choose test, Slice and Print. It doesn’t get easier than that and it tunes your settings and machine perfectly instead of guessing.
I’ll be happy to help you if you have any questions on getting it going!
Running through the OrcaSlicer Calibration I am at 1,027 flow ratio and 0,004 pressure advance. Density is 1.3
Vitrification temp 60 ish more likely.
215 for all layers. The X1C json profile they sent out to me has 65C for HT and Textured PEI Plate. I use these presets.
I think it’s just an upgraded PLA. For more homogenous look on the top and outer surfaces the print speeds need to come down. I am not at a satisfying level yet.
I have contacted their support, which tbh hasn’t been a lot of help. You’ll just have to try on your own.
Did you try turning on Ironing? (In the Quality section). It runs the printhead at a lower temp with a trickle of filament feed back over the top surfaces and fills in the layer lines for a smoother finish.
Sometimes needs a bit of trial to get the perfect settings but it does help with a lot of prints.
Note: Be careful if you use a bed temp of 60 degrees celcius or above: If you use support filaments, then not all of them run highter than 55 cesius bed temp. The offical support filaments from Bambulab can be run at max 55 dregrees celsius
Generally the default settings for fans and cooling are fine. The only time you usually need to mess with them is if you’re experiencing layer failures. Too much air flow causes layers not to stick, too little you get ugly layers and melting.
It kinda varies between models; a part with lots of little details needs different cooling than a large solid item that’s all smooth flowing curves.
Great tip! I forgot that, glad you reminded me - I’m about to do some stuff using support material.
For PLA the stock settings are usually all very usable. But there is always one setting I do change, Max Volumetric Flow. I would set it to 20mm/s and test if it still works. Print a volumetric flow test to see what the max setting is that you can still print with without loosing any quality.
Raising it from the stock 12mm/s will make your larger prints quite a bit faster.
Yes, filament temperature compatibility is important to note, but you can also use a different material for support bases and just use your support filament as the interface. Saves on expensive support material.
When you use Support material it takes what would be a ‘single filament print’ and makes it a ‘multi material print’, so it’s much slower since it has to purge the nozzle many times and also do a purge tower. Much slower.
One thing I noticed that will let you speed up is really dialing in your filament by doing all the calibration tests in OrcaSlicer. I took a simple print that I had for PolyMax PC that was really dialed in and switched to Ludicrous Mode after the first layer.
It took a 1 hr 42 min print and did it in 1:04, IIRR. Forty mins savings on a 1:42 print is pretty amazing. It came out nearly perfect. There was a bit of a poor detail on the seam, but I played with the setting when I printed a second one and it was better. Not perfect, but this wasn’t a decorative item.