Hello everyone,
does anyone have any tips or the perfect print settings for printing Redline Filament PETG? Unfortunately for me it pulls strings, sticks the hotend and suddenly starts to smear (see picture).
Thanks and Greetings
I can’t describe how many people have had this same problem, and I’ve helped in the same way every time. most likely solution: you’re temperature is too low, turn it up, especially with PETG, this can be done manually every time the printer rests, or in the filament menu where you can select the filament type. also remember that some fillaments are not rated the same heat as bambu specific fillaments, bambu printers will be defaulted to these preset temperatures for each filament, so you may have to put the temperatures in manually if the printer’s PETG default temperature range does not match the temperature rating of the PETG you bought. another thing, The a1’s biggest weakness is large flat objects, if you can help it, try to print larger flat objects with floats or not at all because it usually warps on it because of the open design.
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the first statement is nothing against you BTW, I’m just tired and I have answered this question several times. if it doesn’t work, there will be other’s responding soon and I will return if need be. Thank you!
On the X1C, I use 235°C nozzle and 20% fan (both part and aux) for redline PETG. I’m not sure if that translates directly to the A1. And I have completely disabled the increase of fan speed for overhangs and short layer times. It also can easily handle 20 mm³/s.
Honestly I printed only a few samples up to now to dial in settings, but I was very pleased with the results. Only layer adhesion was worse than others. See my comparison.
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I adopted your settings and the result became much better - Thanks!
If more Redline Filament users read this, I would still be interested in your settings 
It just comes down to the ancient problem…
If you get a new type of filament or one from a new supplier than you CALIBRATE the new filament and save it as a profile…
Now offense but there is so many threads with people asking for settings for filament settings that it is joke.
Why ask for settings if it takes a few minutes to find them and have proper ones ? 
try these print settings from here not the first one from the designer, but my one or his/here second one i publish to help
Assuming you have dried the filament first , and as a second step you have calibrated the flow and PA(K) but you can try as it
EDIT: Sorry i did not see that is A1 printer , but probably you can still copy some basic ideas , this was X1C and should be identical to P1S with hardened nozzle
An interesting read here: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon PETG Settings - Get Perfect Prints
X1 is faster and closed but the rules are the same
tl;dr: dry your filament, higher temperature, very slow speed
I made different experiences than that article. For Bambu PETG, I fully agree, but for most other brands, I got better results at lower temps, especially overhangs and stringing got much worse at more than 250°C.
@GCM this article is quite good and confirms the profile i sent
No not the Same i have and had no issues on the Prusa MK3/4 with PETG , it took a while to sort out PLA and PETG on X1C, and no X1C is not faster for PETG
and i forgot in my current profile i use the standard overhang speeds , but in the other one i have reduced it to 25 , but noticed that they even use 20 which some time can cause problems not sure for PETG but my ABS/ASA bellow 25 has issues. And this article would have been helpful if was created by Bambu 12 months or when they released the printer to have a PETG profile ,
Great on Donnie for sharing his experience
I personally do not have problems with PETG overhangs standard for now but from the ABS kinda transferred some assumptions
@Alex_vG to improve overhangs and stringing it is the flow/PA(K) and colling and overhang speeds, unfortunately with temp changes the PA(K) and flow varies a bit
so very likely to see different results and not necessary best print temperature for the filament , for a very long time stopped printing the temp tower as noticed it is pointless unless i fine tune the other parameters , i may do it initially to see where roughly sits the temperature and then decide base pother , unfortunately after changes more than ±5C need to adjust slightly. I use 255C but recently pushed PETG to 260C there was a reason to try higher but after sleepless nights not suer what was it , probably a bit more speed with good adhesion
I made the experience that too high a cooling substantially decreases layer adhesion even at raised temperatures. Raising cooling to counteract overhangs and then raising temperature to restore layer adhesion in my opinion is a rabbit hole that ultimately leads to worse prints.
I measured layer adhesion of several PETG brands at different print settings semi scientifically in this thread.
It shows that Bambu PETG just is a very odd make that should be printed slow to work at all. Even then I have problems with print quality (e.g. loose strands). All other brands I tried worked great at 240°C with 20% cooling and even resulted in nice prints at 300 mm/s with some reduction in layer adhesion. Increasing cooling instantly crippled layer adhesion. I still should do a few tests at raised temperatures, but the few I did, are sufficient for me to say that temperature can’t compensate the downsides of high cooling.
So I state that cooling is the biggest enemy for PETG strength and it is better to improve overhangs with whatever other measures you have available.
This is not my discovery but what I learned from others and just confirmed in my tests.
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Thanks I may give it a go again never was able to have good print above 150mm-200 , BTW what is your volumetric speed for the PETG ?
Ant that was great comparison no eSUN 
i still can sponsor one or two rolls eSUN PETG) to be added to the table 
Message me personally if you want to do that
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