Yeah, my Jubilee toolchanger is rock solid and will remain in the stable but the Qidi is looking for a new home. I’m in the process of waterjetting a couple of old glass screen doors to semi enclose the toolchanger but that’s more of an I junk picked the glass doors and think the glass would look better than the current galvanized steel setup i’m using now.
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I’d troubleshoot my way through quality, but my H2d has given up it’s MC board in the first 24 hours of ownership. Having to wait days for bambu to respond to a support ticket on a brand new box having a defect is not the experience I was paying 4 grand for.
Wow that is amazing! That lettering is tiny!
interesting. My print quality has been better overall on H2D. But startup time is way better on P series. Also filament swaps are quicker/easier on P series.
I hope they prioritize TPU printing on at least one printer in the lineup; at the moment it’s somewhat limited on the H2 series. My X1 Carbon remains my go-to for TPU—while my H2D prints TPU well, it’s not as straightforward as on the X1C.
A broader issue—not specific to the H2D or any single model—is that many newcomers feel they must modify their printer before the first print. When problems arise, there’s no clear baseline for troubleshooting, which leads to frustration and misplaced blame on Bambu Lab. Always run a few prints on a stock machine first so you can tell whether changes actually improve or degrade results.
On my X1 Carbon, the only modification I use is an upgraded wiper. I’m surprised there isn’t an official improvement available; a well-designed upgrade would likely pay for itself quickly. I’ve shared the wiper model I use with Bambu Lab, but I haven’t seen any follow-up yet. Even badly designed third-party wipers will outperform the stock one 
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That’s what I thought. That was the first mod I did on the X1C. The Nozzle Wiper v3 with the A1 Style Brushes from Makerworld. Worked like a charm.
Out of curiosity, I ordered the one from Biqu as well, along with the shield, so that the filament no longer sticks to the chute.
Both work as they should, and I think I spent 5 bucks on them. The Nozzle Wiper from Biqu looks very similar to the A1 Style, is made of metal and simply clicks into place. BL could have easily released something like this.
The shield is simply three times as big as the one Bambulab stuck on there. It just prevents filament from sticking to that spot when it’s freshly extruded.
Jeeze how is this thread still going?? It was about someone regretting buying the h2d. I think he might have gotten a lemon. Anyway, the subject has gone over a hundred posts ago.
Chatty group? I’ve seen worse on other forums that got so far off topic that no one knew what the actual topic was at the end. I now have two H2D and one X1C. The H2D was my first and I have done zero mods to any of them other than add a poop chute. I can say without a doubt the H2D prints better than the X1C with PETG. I haven’t done many PLA on the X1c yet, so verdict is out on that one. I did a Frame with PETG on the X1C and it basically fell apart, then the tower got knocked over and that spelled the end for it all. I ran the exact same print job on the H2D and it came out fine, with the same filament spool. Apples to apples so can’t blame it on the filament. I did notice that the filament needed some drying, but that was only in the finish at the very top that it was ugly. There were supports involved, PLA for the separator which is the reason for the prime tower. I think the main reason the X1C is having an issue is due to its speed, it moves so fast that its shaking all over the place. For now the X1C will be relegated to small prints in PLA, which is just fine since its purpose is for doing just that. Until I can sit and figure out the PETG issue, I will leave the big boys to do that.
Agree. I upgraded from X1C because I thought I would get two things: larger volume (print bigger things) and faster prints (since it has two nozzles). I’m tried printing using 3 colors (with 2 AMS- 2 colors from “A” ams and one from “B” ams. Prints take longer than on X1C.From what I have read here it appears that this is a design issue with extruder/purging . Being a newbie I expected two colors would be ready to go and it would switch nozzles.
So knowing what I know now would I have upgraded from my X1C just to get larger volume prints - NO. Knowing this I would have look at other vendors as they all seem to be improving.
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I feel your pain man many problems myself.
what you did not notice yet it is all the models you wouldnt print on a single nozzle printer. crusader helm coloured are saved 800g,1040 changes, and 2 days of printing rather than a single nozzle printer.
Isn’t enough ? I would not print that with a single nozzle. Quality out of the bed is insanely good. except flat top layers. probably my fault tho
To get faster prints on the H2D, it needs many layers with two colors per layer. Over a hundred color switches with two or more colors per layer makes the H2D worthwhile. They updated profiles weeks ago, and they’re much better now.
I disagree, I bought an X1C after getting the H2D and found that prints are not as good. I have had a couple total failures of prints on the X1c that came out great on the H2D using the same spool of filament. The spool needed drying, and the H2D appears to handle and print wet filament better than the X1C. Also tall items in the X1C tend to fall over from all the shaking, but not having that problem on the H2D it doesn’t shake nearly as much. Also 2 color printing using both heads you have to set up teh Studio to do that so that is will use both heads, if you use the right setting then it will load the first color, print it, then load the second color, print that one, and both stay loaded throughout the print, where the X1C would be switching back and forth, so the H2D is much faster. I have also been able to use the majority of the bed by setting colors for one nozzle that can reach the dead zone. It is possible to use the entire bed, but it leaves a weak spot in the build, so I don’t bother.
Is it perfect? Are any? Side by side though I do see a big difference between the two models. The X1C is OK for what it is, but the H2D will always be my go to, especially for larger PETG prints, the X1C and PETG are not getting along very well.