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Warming up the pla with hot water makes it less brittle, more pliable, so it doesn’t break apart when pulling.
Are you sure that much supports are needed? Like the eye areas, I don’t think those areas with just a millimeter overhang need any supports. It shouldn’t. The print looks beautiful though.
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If you have PLA Basic and PETG HF, they make great support materials for each other—if configured correctly, of course. But if you’re aiming for fully dissolvable supports, I highly recommend bone-dry PVA. And I do mean bone dry. Even the tiniest bit of moisture and it’ll come back to haunt you—either by wrecking your print or clogging everything from the AMS to the nozzle. You’ve been warned! 
Read here for instructions on how to configure PETG HF as support material—or vice versa:
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most likely not needed, however this machine is still new and not every kink has been ironed out, so i wasnt willing to take the risk. it was a 70 hour print on a single nozzle machine, 38 on the h2d…
I thought about using petg, but from what i have seen on influencer videos and other users are having issues with that so i decided against it till it all gets ironed out…
No regrets here, great experience, beautiful machine, and I’ve got a P1S beside it with a good track record. Very happy home lab.
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Thanks! This is really helpful as getting supports off cleanly is the thing I probably struggle with the most.
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I’ve read plenty of negative reviews about PVA, especially when used with the H2D. However, I’ve been printing with PVA for many years, and I recently printed a D20 inside a cage that turned out absolutely perfect.
That said, I completely understand not wanting to risk such a nice model if there’s a chance of issues. I’ll have to give this a try instead—especially since I still have a few spools left of the rather expensive PLA/PETG support material.
With PVA, it’s absolutely critical to keep it bone dry—I don’t even handle it with my bare hands to avoid any moisture absorption that could cause problems. I also use a lot of PVA when fishing, so I’m very familiar with its properties. Despite what many forums suggest, I’ve even printed full models in PVA without issue.
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sweet, thanks for the tips. I have never used pva, and i was going to order some with the h2d, but didnt. Please tell me you got tpu tips, as i have never printed with it yet and i have my eyes set on the whaleberry’s. I have amolen, sainsmart, and polymaker tpu in 95a, and the ams2 pro is keeping them nicely at 5-6% for moisture…
What I usually do is start a print and then put it in silent mode, prints come out way better. If I leave it as standard, sometimes I face inconsistent layer lines especially with big models. (Usually in the first quarter of printing, and some after midway/slightly above of printing)
I just got my H2D yesterday. It left California in May 11th … Went to Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Illinois, Ohio and arrived PA. 12 days and my glass is broke. Ugh!
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My H2D prints perfect. Measurements of parts are matching what I constructed in CAD almost 100%. I will get the calibration plate from Bambu today to make sure this will last in the future. My X1C was good, H2D amazingly perfect without any layerlines on 90 degrees walls etc. Honestly, even with undried PLA from Bambu excellent results. After I setup the printer I checked the build quality and something got lose - nothing, quiet stunning build quality of the printer itself.
The only flaw on my H2D is coilwhine from the PSU when the heatbed LED begins to flash. Its no defect, just some noise. I will open a ticket if Bambu would replace it, otherwise 120 bucks for a PSU doesnt hurt me after to total bill of this insane hobby
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Oh no! Mine is coming all the way from California to Massachusetts. I am dreading it. It will take a maricle for it to arrive in perfect working order