Removal of PET-CF and sharing your tricks

I don’t often start topics in the troubleshooting section lately, but I’ve learned a lot from this community just by reading others’ experiences and solutions. It’s been both fun and rewarding to give back when I can. This time, though, I’m stumped - and looking for ideas better than what I’ve managed so far on my own.

The Problem - PET-CF: A marvelous material that refuses to release

I needed a part for my car - a replacement side mirror bracket. The OEM bracket isn’t sold separately, only as part of a much more expensive assembly. Why spend $150 when a $2 printed part will do? So, with some CAD work and test fitting, I had a perfect PLA prototype.

For the final version, I used a 500g spool of PET-CF because it’s thin, strong, and extreme temp-resistant. Minor filament calibration – Flow rate and Pressure Advance and I’m off to the races (note: the TINMORRY GitHub Bambu profile is junk) I was printing beautiful parts - until I tried to remove them. That’s when the fun started, fun if you enjoy beating your head against the wall that is…wallbashThe material would not let go of anything!!!

Before I waste more time - or expensive filament - I’m hoping someone here has cracked this.

What I’ve tried (no luck):

Build surfaces tested:

  1. High Temp Smooth plate
  2. Textured PEI
  3. Engineering plate with Kapton (polyimide) tape

Adhesives used as release liners:

  • Bambu Liquid Adhesive
  • Aqua Net hairspray
  • White glue stick
  • Vision Miner Nano-Polymer Adhesive - Supposed to work with PETG/PET-CF. For $45, it should print the part itself. :laughing:

Direct-to-plate printing was a disaster. The part bonded so tightly it broke during removal.(see photo below) I since remedied that by going 100% wall thickness. Nothing to delaminate with that but it created a secondary issue in that it stuck permanently to the plate.

What I haven’t tried yet for fear of damaging my build plates:

Let me know if anyone’s tested these before I risk damaging the surface:

  • Garolite G10 plate – I use this primarily for PA Nylon filament and don’t want to ruin it.
  • Low tack plate (I reserve this plate for smooth finishes)
  • Smooth PEI plate (likewise for the low tack plate)

What sort of worked:

  • First try with Nano/adhesive, Bambu Liquid and glue stick: total failure. The part delaminated on the plate and required carving off.
  • Second try: Kapton tape + tons of glue. That let me eventually peel it off - after hot water and careful razor work.

  • Final method: soak in hot running water with squirts of Windex, while carefully wedge up using a razor blade and guitar pick. While it worked but I think I can do better because I can easily see there being problems with thinner models. My test strip was a 75x15x3mm cube primitive.

Looking for ideas that’ll improve on this. I’m not asking for miracles - just hoping someone has a less-destructive solution. Thanks in advance.

I have never tried printing with PET-CF but I know that often to help release TPU you can stick it in the freezer and it will contract & release itself.
Maybe have a crack with a test peice?

I use PETG and PETG-CF (Bambu and tinmorry) a lot and never had these problem. A solution is to reduce your bed temperature

You could use aliexpress textured pei plates. Some of them cheap out when making those black textured pei plate. But that was exactly what I needed for ABS print as I had problem with ABS print stick too darn well to build plate.

Below are macro shots of the pei surface of

Black textured pei plate

Gold textured pei plate

1 Like

I just recently printed a display stand out of Petg-CF. It was my first time ever printing Petg, and my first time printing a fiber infused filament. I wasn’t sure what plate to use, but I had just bought a Bambu labs Supertack on their 3rd anniversary sale. I decided to Print the Petg-CF on the Supertack with liquid glue and had perfect adhesion and Release. Hope this helps!

Hi again,
In my first reply, I thought you were talking about PETG instead of PET. I just printed with Siraya’s PET-CF, an absolutely outstanding material, using the default Bambu Lab PET-CF profile (only increasing the nozzle temperature to 290°C), on a Panda Build Plate CryoGrip Pro Glacier with a bit of glue stick. Perfect result and it detached without any issues.