I ran into some problems with my P1S that made me replace the extruder and hot end. I got a harden steel hot end and changed the settings within the slicer and checked on the panel of the printer itself it is also on harden steel not stainless.
I have had inconsistent to down right bad prints ever since.
I then did a temp tower it came out decent besides the under carriage on the right side so I’m really confused.
Some people fail to tighten the screws sufficiently when replacing a X/P hotend, try checking that first.
I’m wagering that you took this temp tower from printables or some other site.
Did you verify that the temperature gradient was in effect or simply download the STL?
In order to confirm this, you’ll need to turn on the temp color scheme. If it doesn’t look like this, then I’m afraid you only printed it at a single temp and therefore didn’t perform a proper temp tower test.
Thank you I’ll double check that!
It didn’t I added temps to the G-code but it did not look like that thank you!
If you want to save yourself the hassle of manually entering GCode, download Orca Slicer. That diagnostic routine is baked into the slicer.
Are you sure your part cooling fan is spinning? I was having some horrendous problems with PLA and it turned out that I hadn’t reseated my hotend fan correctly, so the connector wasn’t contacting the PCB enough and it wasn’t cooling the filament
Thanks for the reply I’ll definitely check that out!
OK. Now we’re making some diagnostic progress.
You’ll notice that this model behaves very differently from the other: there’s a strong disparity in flow between 230°C and 190°C. That points directly to a temperature-related flow issue. The remaining question is: why? Honestly, the flow is so poor at 190°C that I’m surprised you didn’t experience a clog.
Here are the next diagnostic steps I’d suggest, ordered from least to most time-consuming:
Crank the nozzle temperature beyond normal PLA ranges. Try 260–280°C and run a small, fast test print—something under 2g. This will help isolate temperature as the variable. I recommend a slim overhang model like the one linked below (1.5g trimmed). It’s skinny, so use brims for bed adhesion. Run tests at 250°C, 260°C, and up to 300°C if necessary.
Objective: Find out if there’s a temperature threshold where flow normalizes.
Slim overhang 1.5g.3mf (116.4 KB)
Swap in a different spool of PLA. Ideally from another brand or manufacturing lot. If you know how to modify G-code, I’ll assume you’ve already dried the spool and aren’t relying on the “factory-sealed” excuse. As we all know, factory-sealed filament can still arrive wet.
Objective: Rule out filament quality as the cause.
Reinstall your old nozzle.
Objective: See if the problem disappears, indicating the issue lies in the new nozzle or related components.
Because the issue is temperature-dependent, we can likely rule out feed system problems. That narrows it down to a few high-probability suspects:
Faulty or misaligned thermistor. If it’s sending incorrect readings, the printer believes the nozzle is at target temp when it isn’t. Your print behavior suggests this may be happening.
Improperly seated ceramic heater or poor electrical contact. Did you buy a full hotend assembly or just a bare nozzle? If you reused the heater or thermistor, check them first.
Reference at the Bambu Store, no longer easy to find using their broken search engine:
Ceramic Heater & Thermistor 3 pcs - P1 Series | Bambu Lab USA Store
Personally, I prefer to buy at least one complete hotend assembly to avoid installation guesswork, but that’s personal preference. Bambu Hotend - P1 Series | Bambu Lab USA Store
Verify the part cooling fan is off. A fan running at the wrong time can sabotage extrusion temps.
You’re the best this is great info! As soon as I’m home from work I will begin these trials
First thing I noticed I painted a dot on the fan and it was not spinning!
