I’m replacing the belts on my P1S and removing the old ones is impossible. I’ve been spending the better part of 2 hours trying to pry out ends of the belts from the print head. Those little tabs are now completely destroyed. I’ve triedhemostats, three dental picks (2 of which snapped, 1 bent to unusefulness), and a pair of needlenose pliers.
What’s the expectation here? does Bambu expect people to buy an entire new gantry along with the belts to replace that, too?
I don’t know if dental picks have enough rigidity to use as a lever to get them out. The video shows them using a screwdriver to pry them out. Sounds like yours are pretty stuck.
Yeah, I tried the screwdriver method first thing. The little slot that the screwdriver is intended for got demolished on my very first attempt with all four belts.
Edit: seems like I’m not the only one
took this poor guy several hours, he shared his technique with me, but to no avail.
Recently I had to replace the belts and also found it too tight to just pry them out like shown in the wiki.
Eventually I figured out a good method which is to loosen the clamp screws just slightly, then pry the clamp to loosen the belt while simultaneously prying the belt out. It’s best to completely remove the carriage from the rods to avoid damage from slipping.
It might also work to use a thin blade to cut the stopper from the belt then sliding the belt out vertically, but I didn’t think of this in time to try it.
Unless I’m odd, I just loosed the clamps and slid the cable upward or downward, pulling with needle nose pliers. It’s tight but not as tight as trying to pull the plastic out. That’s how you’ll install them anyway.
You install them by sliding the belt in with the stopper out, then pulling the stopper in. After that there is no up or down movement for the stopper. So unless your carriage looks different it’s impossible to do what you are describing. The stopper has to be pulled out first or cut off like I suggested.
Unless I’m forgetting something, yes you can cut them out. However they don’t go in by pulling the plastic through then back. The cable will slip in and then you pull it back to seat the end, tighten clamp then go.
You have to either slide the cable over the portion of the tool head mount. Forgive me for not being specific enough for you.
Yes I’ve replaced them. Replaced the whole gantry back before you could take the top of the unit off to work on it. The way you’re describing by prying and pulling caused me to break one mount. Support sent a gantry and instructions on how not to do it.
No idea what you are trying to describe here. The pictures show exactly how it’s suppose to go in, and the only way it can go in. The problem is when doing the reverse of this step in disassembly, the belt is clamped too tightly even with the clamp screw removed.
The stopper has to be out of the carriage like in the left picture before the belt can have any vertical movement to be removed, or the stopper has to be otherwise detached from the belt. The belt doesn’t have enough stretch to be removed any other way.
As I mentioned the clamp screw has to be loosened just slightly to pry the clamp. The screw prevents the clamp from bending too much and breaking off.
I’m going to say “you’re right” with a smile. I remember not having any problem with these, they went on as they should and I only cut the middle to expedite removal. They’re not difficult, slide a loop down or up (can’t remember and pull the belt down to seat the both sides. Put clamp, pull belt, tighten and go to the next.
I’m not going to argue about it. You’re right, I’m wrong…whatever.
I’m not sure what are you trying to do in this old thread…
But you can’t move the belt up or down with the stopper completely latched in. Essentially there are two issues:
Belt removal - yes you can cut the old belt to relief the tension. However, the challenge here to remove the stopper with pliers and not destroy the said stopper, as it’s made out of the soft and somewhat pliable plastic.
Installation is easy for one side, but then on the other side you are met with a very limited belt travel due to the tension. Anyway - not as hard as removal.
My personal advice to anyone doing this (I did it in total 3 times) on P-series printers is to buy an automotive straight pick tool. Like that one:
It’s clear It’s being misunderstood on my part or someone’s part. I had 0 issues when dealing with the gantry. Well, had one that I ham fisted.
That part is wedged in. I get it. I’m not going over this again.
yeah people are not getting here the issue you had as well as me. the little plastic parts got destroyed coming out and now they can’t hold the belt in place. they dont sell these little pieces as individual parts but rather you have to buy the whole $89 Carbon rod assy. These cheap plastic pieces are essentially consumable. They will barely last one belt change. i am looking into potentially getting a batch of these made out of Aluminum from a local CNC shop. i have 7 P1S so i will be at this again. but would need to order enough to make it economically viable and then try to sell the extras i dont use for myself to cover the costs to the machinist.
Bambu has a little known web page that I discovered by accident where you can request parts for purchase that are not available in the store. They may not sell you the part only but may be a sub-assembly but it’s worth a try.