Just got a new P1s. Would love to print a riser but looking for something that’s not too over the top long or complicated print. I was hoping to use PETG but my first attempt was a big fail. Is pla+ strong enough? I’ve been basically a PLA guy in the past. This beast is a blast to use but for some reason that petg eludes me. Lack of experience
Depends on what you need. A simple glass riser? An AMS riser + vent? A do-it-all modular thing?
I guess you want an AMS riser?
Most of the designs that printed “fast” (< 20h) I’ve printed were kinda flimsy or less stable.
I ultimately went for this design: V2 Vented Remix - Updated Bambu Lab Ultimate P1P P1S X1-C Riser+AMS Stand - Community Build! Remixed by Fat Tony - MakerWorld
I printed it with a custom profile in PETG in around 58h (12+12+17+17) with 4 walls and 20% gyroid infill. It ate two spools of filament (~2kg) for the print itself, and another spool beforehand when I started to experiment with PETG for the first time.
Compared to other models that I’ve seen and tried, this one has the largest surface area to place your AMS on - the AMS will be standing on its own (rubber) feet, rather than resting its frame on a thinner riser.
The default profile is for PLA+, and it was originally designed to be printed in PLA+ (it’s a bit faster with the profile they provide). I wouldn’t print an AMS riser with PLA, though. The sun will eat it for breakfast. And if the risers fail, they usually fail spectacularly.
The model and profile have its issues though, such as non optimal support settings (built plate only support is not enough), some issues with overhangs/bridges on layer 4 of each plate that need to be fixed on the model itself - but other than that, it’s a solid piece (literally). I have lined the bezel for the glass and the upper glass holders with 2mm thick foam tape to eliminate any possible noise issues.
Creepy photo attached:
Keep in mind, that when using an AMS riser, you might need a longer PTFE tube for the AMS ↔ Filament buffer connection. At least in my case, the bending angle for the tubing is too steep, causing the AMS motors to struggle when loading/unloading. I had to order tubing and I’ll cut it to a proper length, since the P1S combo only has short(er) pieces, whereas a standalone AMS comes with longer tubing.
In case you did not mean an AMS riser, but a riser for the printer itself - get a slab of concrete and thick dampening mats (1x 2cm or 2x 1cm) (there’s odor-free rubber mats too). Put the dampening mats onto your table, place the concrete slab on your mats and put your printer on top of it all.
I like the concrete slab idea. I may just end up putting the AMS on a shelf behind the printer honestly. Or, place it next to the printer. I have plenty of space for sure. I just tried to print a PETG riser and it was doing fine but no supports it got ugly quick.
I have to say I really appreciate the time you spent explaining what is needed. Now, Time to start searching the home centers for a concrete slab big enough. From what I understand, it’s better to have the ams next to the P1S as opposed to it being on top. If anything I’ll do a simple LED for the top. I really like to be able to see my prints from the top.
Can’t thank you enough for the help
Joe
I looked at a lot of risers and eventually settled on this one
It allows adding LEDs, it’s not a high a rise as most, and it serves the extra purpose of being a tool holder. I printed in PLA with PETG for the support interface.
But if you have the space just put it to the left of the printer, allows you to shorten the PTFE tube to speed up filament changes
Never thought about the shorter PTFE tube benefit. Thanks a million for the tip!
Joe
Oh, damn. I totally forgot that you can just move the filament buffer or AMS hub anywhere. Won’t there be any issues with the buffer mechanism (the spring loaded out tube that constantly pulls in and out of the buffer) if the buffer is not attached to anything?
Apparently not - according to the comments in that forum topic. But I’ve not done it myself (would like to try but I don’t have the room atm) so I can’t speak from experience, best do your own research
I also saw a model someone created to mount the buffer vertically on the back left side of the printer - using the screw holes that some folks use to attach a side spool mount - I thought it was in that thread but it must have been somewhere else…
Haven’t seen any issues so far after a couple hundred hours of printing and about 5k swaps or so.
The mechanism doesn’t need to be mounted in any structure to work reliably.
I printed this one, printed great. Didn’t use a lot of material, took about 12 hours and is plenty strong enough. I even printed it out of PLA and have had no issues with it. Riser also includes a channel for LED lights and a shelf to vent the glass top. Minimal and functional.
What is the advantage of a riser? I pretty much only print PETG, but don’t have a P1S yet.
If you keep the AMS on top of the printer a riser lets you remove the top glass for cooling when printing PLA. Most of them also have a place to add LED strip lighting to augment the not too bright built-in light. And by having the glass a little higher the PTFE tube to the extruder doesn’t rub the glass.
Im still new to my P1S. Is it that much of an issue that removal of the glass is necessary?
The glass just sits on top. But if you have AMS on the glass, it’s a hassle lifting AMS to get glass out, then you have no place to set ams, unless your filament tune is long enough to set it aside.
My AMS sets on the glass, no riser. I haven’t noticed any difference in printing PLA with door open or closed.
You shouldn’t and there’s nothing wrong with that. I have mine on a riser because I sometimes need to get into the printer and I use it for Cobb lights. Otherwise I’d be with you.
I don’t have an AMS and I did resist the idea of a riser for months, but gradually changed my mind. I have encountered problems printing PLA , PETG and TPU due to chamber temperatures being too warm (usually) and I often do need to remove the top glass and open the door. That means finding a safe spot to store the glass. I also wanted a convenient storage spot for my extra plates and small spare parts.
The AMS Riser V2 filled those needs and has been well worth the 2+ spools of filament it requires. There are many remixes available and also a whole range of custom drawers and tool holders. The riser also provides a better side mount for my external spool than the one I used previously. The riser does block ambient light through the top, so adding LED lights did become more of a necessity than a nice-to-have.
and it’s a third of the size of the printer!
Close, the riser adds about 130mm to the height of the printer, or 28%. (~5 inches) It also lets me use otherwise wasted space above the printer for storage, and I can vent the top by just sliding the glass up into the high position - no need to clear anything off the glass. My extra plates are safe, at a convenient height for selection, and there is room for more. Extra hot ends, socks, screws, wipers, glue sticks, etc. are in the drawers near where they will be used.
Oh i get it, and that’s great.
I’m too short to have my AMS ontop of that though. Need a step stool close by.
I wouldn’t mind a minimal riser to allow glass to be removed for better extruder access at times.
There are a few up that are minimal. Most look like they’er in the 3-5 inch height. I’ve thought about them, but I need someplace to put my AMS.