I am having an issue where my prints are all the sudden really rough. I have had issues with very fine stringing and now this issue with very rough looking prints. Beginning to think the rough print may be the filament. These are black rolls from Bambu and I have never had issues. the picture shows the same print from before the issues.
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The first answer you will get for that is wet filament. The second answer is under or over extrusion, BUT based on the consistent line on the right side, I think you have a motion issue. Clean all your lead screws and the guide shafts, apply a small amount of grease. If you think it’s not enough, it’s perfect. Clean the carbon rods. Check your extruder gears for wear or particulate matter and clean with compressed air. Finally, ensure your belt tension is correct and check the belt running under the P1S for rubbing on the idler pulley
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You made me laugh 
. Indeed, these are likeable. However, without eliminating the simple cause, at least for me, it is hard to be confident about the cause.
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I can see what you’re saying, and maybe. That looks an awful lot like wet though.
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It is brand new filament straight outa the sealed bag. I have never had issues with wet filament even when it has sat out in my garage unsealed. These rolls came straight outa the sealed bag into my AMS and started printing.
Does not matter. At all. Can be wet when opened. Really.
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Yep…its probably wet bruh
Wasn’t there someone on here earlier with black Bambu filament issues, closeup photo showing the filament had some sort of fleck in it?
looks like I need to buy a dryer… ran through a couple thousand dollars of filament and this is the first issue I have had with wet filament.
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You can do everything right but control what’s sent to you.
Not all filament is wet, and PLA is the most forgiving. It happens and more than some want to believe.
If you really need to you dry it with your printer.
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I agree about drying with the printer.
Put it on the build plate and set the bed temp for around 55C. Leave it for a couple of hours or better still, overnight.
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I can send you a parts list to build your own. Will dry 8 rolls of filament at a time for about 50 USD
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Hi,
An 8 spool dryer for 50$ seems quite interesting.
Can you share?
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I am interested for sure. can you share?
I actually bought a dryer. the Creality Space Pi, and it seems better, but it is still happening on the top layer. The side seems way better, but on something printing on the top layer it is still doing it.
Sorry I am a bit late on this. Here is what you will need
I insulated the inside of the tote with double bubble aluminum. It’s pretty cheap at home depot. I also had a wooden dowel I cut in half and screwed into some scrap 2x4. This each dowel will hold 3 spools, and I can slide another two spools on the sides. The heater block is mounted on the underside of the lid, with some scrap wood acting as a mounting block and providing an air gap.
Adhere the double bubble to the inside of the plastic tote with 3m spray adhesive. Make sure to dot the underside of the lid too!
I also printed out a small enclosure for the PID controller and relay.
Looks like it’s a bit more expensive to make now, but still just as effective as one you can buy, and can fit way more!
Forgot the tote, 54 quart airtight sterlite container. about 16bucks at Walmart
how long did you dry for. 24 hours WITH heat is the minimum I will do. Then I let it sit while the desiccant absorbs. The desiccant doesn’t really do any absorbing until the heat is off.
Many thanks for sharing.
I am also (trying) to make my own, as I believe the performance of the available market is below my expectations and at a higher cost.
I am also into the PID and SSR combo, as it is the best solution for a low-cost dryer. Yet, I do have some questions regarding the temperature.
What is the maximum temperature you can achieve with the system? Does the car heat operate at drying temperatures?
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My box easily get to 100c. If i wede to do it again i would buy the same heater but the 200w version. That should set you up for future filaments with higher ddying temps.
The instructions for connecting everything can be a bit muddy, if you buy the parts and have questions i can draw you a easy to read schematic