Hi all,
I printed the attached image, as a desktop lamp shed. However, at the rounded corners the filaments are not sticking together. The filaments are coming out, I can pull them with fingers.
This simply won’t work. Your model is insufficient to hold up the corners. You can quickly see that this is roughly 1 layer in thickness. While that’s great for transparency on the flat sides, as you just saw, the laws of physics are against you. You will need to thicken up the corners in the design.
Yeah overhangs needs more cooling when they are over 45°.
So in you case, with your big bottom fillet. That means you have almost a 90° angle at the bottom.
So enable cooling after the first layer and enable supports.
You can also enable variable layer height. That will gives you a better arc definition on Z and since that will make the layer thinner they will be better supported by the previous layer.
I will try with 0.4mm nozzle now, also 3 wall loops. I will also try to enable variable layer height, I need to study a bit before enabling this since I never tried this option.
I will share the result with the above in a while.
Hey @Henlor, yes it was designed by myself. I knew that I will print it using ‘fake spiral vase mode’, by enabling the ‘spiral vase’ first, and then modifying a few parameters like:
adding support
number of wall loops
etc
My goal is to generate two layers, one inside and one outside. So I thought the spiral vase mode could help.
Here is the printed output using 0.4mm nozzle and 3 wall loops.
At last try, I am adding support (through manual support painting, since the slicer does not add the support even at 10 degree threshold. I’m worried about the marks those support leaves. I will try top Z distance to 0.25mm instead of default 0.20mm, if that helps.
yeah those kind of fillets will never be clean without supports. You could maybe use a different material for the support but that will increase the print time drastically.
The easiest and the best approach in my opinion, is to rework the geometry of the model in ordre to avoid the need of support at the first place.
A good practice is to make a chamfer instead of a fillet. And if you want to smooth the design, you can add a fillet on the top edge of the chamfer.
Here, I’ve made a quick model to show you And I’ve played with the 3mf
OMG such a great effort for identifying and fixing my bs design, kudos @Henlor.
I will give a try on your suggested design without support and will post it here. I hope this discussion also helps others who are using fillets like mine and pulling the hairs out.
Here is the latest output with the support added with manual support painting. In my opinion, it’s much better than the previous tryouts.
However, I should avoid supports to avoid manual filing and sanding for better finishing.
I don’t mind at all. I love this XD
I recommend you to watch the YouTube channel Slant 3d. They have a lot of videos with tips & tricks on modeling for 3D printing.
I’ve forced the line width to 0.8 for the vase mode. That’s not a problem for the 0.6 nozzle.
But the printed model will be weak with all those long and flat surfaces. You might even need to reduce the speed just to be able to print it.
A better way to get a stronger vase mode print is to add a pattern on the walls like a horizontal grooves. Its the easiest to print and to model. 45° grooves will be even better for strength. But this is just an example there are many possibilities
And…here is a perfect rounded corner. Made with 0.4mm, single wall with the default speed (outer wall 200mm/s, inner wall 300mm/s) to test the bonding.
