Scars/diagonal lines on sharp edges

Hi newby to 3d printing here, have my X1C for 3 weeks now and i love it but for one model I can’t seem to get the print to come out as expected I got some scars near corners/folds and also a seam which I think I should not have in spiral vase mode.

I’ve seen some nice makes of the used model on printables also with P1Ps without the issues I’m having so why wouldn’t it work with my X1C

So my settings/preconditions are

  • X1C
  • filament: Bambu PLA silk gold
  • model: Printables file “VaseRose_FullSize_withbottom.stl”
  • Default settings except “spiral vase mode” and the suggested changes by bambu studio after turning it on (wall loops:1, Top shell layers:0, Sparse infill density: 0)
  • Upon slicing I ignored a warning image

What i’ve tried and did not seem to work

  • printing outer wall lower speed 150 instead of 200
  • simplified model after being prompted when slicing this model
  • for the seam problem; set seam to nearest hoping it would create the seam in a fold (but could never see a seam after slicing)

Any suggestions on what I can try

Thanks for your help!


Hi s.v.marshall,

If you look close at the stl mesh you can see gaps and cracks in it maybe you can clean it up more.

How to fix STL files

I don’t print silk filaments but you might want to reach out to I_Anthony

If I remember correctly he sets his silk filaments outside wall to 50 mm/s

Hope this helps you out keep us updated :v:

1 Like

As @3DTech advised lower your wall speed to 50 or 75 mms and I would suggest increasing the print temp on the second layer +5 to +10° over the recommended print temp

Keep your first layer temp at the default to prevent oozing but silk needs a higher temp and 220 (if thats the default) is about 10° too low

I would try increasing the every other layer temp first and if that doesn’t work lower your wall speed as suggested


hi guys thanks for your help :raised_hands:, the result is better now but not “perfect”. There are less scars and there is still a seam

the one on the right is the most recent one.

So what i’ve done

  • Auto repaired STL with Meshmixer
  • set outer wall speed to 50
  • seam was set to aligned (not sure what would be better, nearest also creates a seam on a random spot not near a fold)

@Jrock i did not modify the nozzle temperature as it was already set to 230 (think this is because of the NFC on the spool), guess I could try and raise the temp slightly to 235?

Actually by the looks of it your nozzle temps are fine

As for the seam try painting your seem in an inconspicuous spot or with aligned go with 10% instead of 15%(15 is the default, I’ve had good results with 10)

Personally I paint most of my seams especially on prints with square edges, its a bit trickier on rounder more organic shapes but painting my seams is always my first option and 60% of the time it works every time lol

1 Like

I would paint the seam in one of these spots

Does spiral vase mode have seams…? I thought spiral vase mode was supposed to be one continuous extrusion after the bottom is set. I think there’s some mechanical error

The seam is where the z axis moves up

Even though its continuous there is still a hight transition that can show where it moved up a layer

I have only used vase mode is Orca and BS a handful of times but don’t really have any use for it so I’m not sure how the slicer engines do with different prints

The times I did play with vase mode I didn’t see any seams or transitions but didn’t really look too closely because like I wrote there’s no need for it with the do dads and things I print

Out of curiosity I’m printing that exact same vase rose right now

I opted for the file with the flat bottom

I’ll post my results in approximately 45 minutes

As @ant pointed out there is technically no seam in vase mode but there is still a transition for each layer up

I’m printing it with a .2mm bottom layer and .12mm layer hight for every other layer

Also printing in black sparkle PLA not silk

And for the record gold silk is actually a tough color to print, it gives lots of stringing and lots of wierd defects unless its dialed in

Your choice of material could be what’s causing your issues but we’ll see shortly

If PLA works I’ll bang out another one in silk green or silk silver to see if there’s a difference

Stay tuned…

Printed in matte purple. No seam issues. I think maybe underextrusion on your prints


Mine is done

I’ll head down to my printer and see how it looks in a minute

So no issues with the black sparkle PLA

Doing another one in Mech Solutions silk green PLA +

I’ll see how it turns out

Soooo 45 minutes later again and here we go

Now it’s simply a matter of either wet filament or slicer settings

If your filament snaps/breaks when you bend it then it’s the filament that needs to be dried

If your filament bends without snapping then we can play with your slicer settings

BTW this is the file off Printables as is not repaired so work with the regular file not the repaired one

1 Like

wow great prints and tips guys. I appreciate the help!

Friday I printed one with the Bambu PLA basic red.

Did not have scarring. At that time i indeed thought it was a seam wich i had so as @Jrock said I painted my seam on the inside of the rose only to still get (what i thought back then) a seam on the outside, which is actually the layer transition.

On this red rose i did have an issue with the 1st layer(s) coming up at that fold, maybe I did miss a spot with glue stick.

so @ant after doing some reading i assume a should adjust my flow rate. Any suggestions on the value

For my next gold one i’ll decrease the layer hight to 0.12 and maybe the flow rate.

Anyway I agree that the regular PLA is easier to work with


Hi s.v.marshall,

Every filament will be different spec setting if you want to get the filaments fine tune switch to the Orca slicer.

This will help get you started The Calibration Process

Have a good one :v:

I would make sure that the filament you want to use for your final product is nice snd dehydrated

You can chase tuning all day but if the filament has absorbed moisture it will always give you grief

As for calibrating your flow rate and pressure advance the only filaments I’ve found that are pretty much spot on for these printers is genuine BL filament so you can tick on the pressure advance and use the factory values

It will be a ■■■■ shoot using a number suggested by someone else, you’re best option is to do the tests yourself in Orca

If you’re in a hurry then test 1 on flow rate and pressure advance using lines is your fastest choice

Once again though, your filament must be dry or all of this testing will just have you chasing your tail

The lidar actually does a decent job at calculating pressure advance so you could always just leave that on but regardless of if you use the lidar scan or not you’ll need to remember (and this is important) using lidar turn pressure advance off
No lidar turn pressure advance on

You’ll get weird results if you have pressure advance ticked on and the printer lays down all those lines and uses the lidar to calculate pressure advance, sometimes it will use the preset value and other times it will use the calculated value or the values will change on different layers


OK thanks again for the tips i’ll try the calibration soon, probably tomorrow or else this weekend.

Do you always need to dry new filament just to be sure or do you only need to do this when you have issues with new filament

If I open the vacuum sealed bag and don’t feel the vacuum release I’ll put the filament in the drier for 5 or 6 hours at 128°

Otherwise the only filaments I dry regardless are TPU and ASA which I actually print externally from the drier

1 Like

So the result is better now with your help guys, think i’ll do some more tweaking as i have not combined all I learned

the scars are very minimal and I indeed still have that layer transition

what i’ve done

  1. Dry filament with the X1C setting (in a box)
  2. Run the calibrations in orca slicer (and adjusted my max volumetric speed to 22 )
  3. Print the rose in spiral vase mode with outer wall speed 150 (this is something i can lower more again but wanted to post my results now)


Looking much better for sure

Now I would rotate the rose so that the artifacts you’re trying to get rid of are facing the auxiliary fan running your fan at 75-80%

Also keep your eye out for a cheap food dehydrator, they can be found for $20-30 and work better at drying filament than my $130 filament dryers lol

In the meantime keep up the good work