Hi newby to 3d printing here, have my X1C for 3 weeks now and i love it but for one model I can’t seem to get the print to come out as expected I got some scars near corners/folds and also a seam which I think I should not have in spiral vase mode.
Default settings except “spiral vase mode” and the suggested changes by bambu studio after turning it on (wall loops:1, Top shell layers:0, Sparse infill density: 0)
Upon slicing I ignored a warning
What i’ve tried and did not seem to work
printing outer wall lower speed 150 instead of 200
simplified model after being prompted when slicing this model
for the seam problem; set seam to nearest hoping it would create the seam in a fold (but could never see a seam after slicing)
As @3DTech advised lower your wall speed to 50 or 75 mms and I would suggest increasing the print temp on the second layer +5 to +10° over the recommended print temp
Keep your first layer temp at the default to prevent oozing but silk needs a higher temp and 220 (if thats the default) is about 10° too low
I would try increasing the every other layer temp first and if that doesn’t work lower your wall speed as suggested
seam was set to aligned (not sure what would be better, nearest also creates a seam on a random spot not near a fold)
@Jrock i did not modify the nozzle temperature as it was already set to 230 (think this is because of the NFC on the spool), guess I could try and raise the temp slightly to 235?
Actually by the looks of it your nozzle temps are fine
As for the seam try painting your seem in an inconspicuous spot or with aligned go with 10% instead of 15%(15 is the default, I’ve had good results with 10)
Personally I paint most of my seams especially on prints with square edges, its a bit trickier on rounder more organic shapes but painting my seams is always my first option and 60% of the time it works every time lol
Does spiral vase mode have seams…? I thought spiral vase mode was supposed to be one continuous extrusion after the bottom is set. I think there’s some mechanical error
Even though its continuous there is still a hight transition that can show where it moved up a layer
I have only used vase mode is Orca and BS a handful of times but don’t really have any use for it so I’m not sure how the slicer engines do with different prints
The times I did play with vase mode I didn’t see any seams or transitions but didn’t really look too closely because like I wrote there’s no need for it with the do dads and things I print
Did not have scarring. At that time i indeed thought it was a seam wich i had so as @Jrock said I painted my seam on the inside of the rose only to still get (what i thought back then) a seam on the outside, which is actually the layer transition.
On this red rose i did have an issue with the 1st layer(s) coming up at that fold, maybe I did miss a spot with glue stick.
so @ant after doing some reading i assume a should adjust my flow rate. Any suggestions on the value
For my next gold one i’ll decrease the layer hight to 0.12 and maybe the flow rate.
Anyway I agree that the regular PLA is easier to work with
I would make sure that the filament you want to use for your final product is nice snd dehydrated
You can chase tuning all day but if the filament has absorbed moisture it will always give you grief
As for calibrating your flow rate and pressure advance the only filaments I’ve found that are pretty much spot on for these printers is genuine BL filament so you can tick on the pressure advance and use the factory values
It will be a ■■■■ shoot using a number suggested by someone else, you’re best option is to do the tests yourself in Orca
If you’re in a hurry then test 1 on flow rate and pressure advance using lines is your fastest choice
Once again though, your filament must be dry or all of this testing will just have you chasing your tail
The lidar actually does a decent job at calculating pressure advance so you could always just leave that on but regardless of if you use the lidar scan or not you’ll need to remember (and this is important) using lidar turn pressure advance off
No lidar turn pressure advance on
You’ll get weird results if you have pressure advance ticked on and the printer lays down all those lines and uses the lidar to calculate pressure advance, sometimes it will use the preset value and other times it will use the calculated value or the values will change on different layers
, the result is better now but not “perfect”. There are less scars and there is still a seam
