I know the P1S and X Series are somewhat interchangeable but can someone point me towards an eplanation of the settings I have highlighted in the attached picture. I have a P1S.
My guess would be that you loaded a 3mf for the X1C & when transferring settings to the P1S, you saved the profile when closing Studio…but …
that should have been 1 profile, not all of them.
Are you asking why they say X1C when you have a P1S? That’s normal, it’s because they are very similar.
I know all about the X1C P1S similarity and made note that I understand that part. This is entirely different. If you look at the actual settings that I circled you will notice things like this list
- Fine
- Extra Fine
- Optimal
- Draft
- Extra Draft
along with various line thicknesses and ,08mm is definitely Extra Fine.
Off the top of my head, to achieve a .08 line thickness you (I think) would need to swap to the smallest diameter nozzle which is .2mm
Those are layer heights, not line thicknesses.
The “0.08mm” indicates layer thickness, not line width.
The differences between profiles can be seen using the Compare presets tool:
How do the different choices of nozzle height impact a given print.
I have stuck with the default nozzle, .4mm Hardened Steel and used the default layer height of .2mm.
The Wiki says the .4 mm nozzle has been tuned/tested to run layer heights from .08mm Extra Fine through .28mm Extra Draft for a total layer height range of .2mm.
How often do folks change that layer height? When you changed, did you get what you wanted?
Layer heights are an important part of 3d printing.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/layer-height
Yes, people routinely use a different layer height. The print time goes up as you reduce the layer height, so people often make drafts in large heights like .24 and the finished model in .16 or even .12 for the best quality.
No doubt about that.
I’m trying to print the various pieces of a filament rewinder and so far, with one exception all the parts are printing as desired.
Also, I am using various different materials based on expected load so have already printed a PA-GF base plate, structural parts out of ABS and gears out of straight PA6
That one exception is a short piece ( 1" - 1.25" length x .625" D) Acme Thead.
I’m printing the various gears in nylon and printing has not been a problem with the exception of this short threaded part.
When you look at the final product there is a nice symmetric loop of filament on the down side of the thread from top to bottom. I don’t know what is causing this but the symetry says (to me) that it is doing what it is told and am wondering if changing the layer height might help.
I have a fixed diameter hole I’m pushing the filament through so it seems like decreasing the layer height with do a couple of things. 1) Change the pressure applied by the extruder, and 2) change the travel speed.
So this is just trial by fire.
I swapped out the .4mm nozzle for a .2mm nozzle earlier but it appears that Bambu Studio logic won’t let me print PA6 with a .2mm nozzle so after wrestling with that, in between eating turkey and mashed taters, I just put the .4mm nozzle back.
Hitting Print—>Send will have to wait until tomorrow.