Hi everyone!
I want to buy a Bambu Lab 3d printer, but I don’t know which one to get. I had a ender 3 pro and a sidewinder x2. I print mainly PLA, I will try to use TPU and PETG, but nothing like ABS or Carbon Fiber. The problem I had with previous printers is that sometimes printing PLA the print starts to warp, the room temperature is not stable, on winter it’s cold, like 0⁰ Celsius and on summer it can get 35 or 40⁰ Celsius. I just don’t know if I should get the one with the enclosure or if it is unnecessary.
Thank you for your help!
Welcome to the forum.
Currently the P1S is only $100 more than the P1P. You can’t upgrade a P1P for that price.
Personal opinion, go for the P1S as it’s a more “complete” machine and it will allow you to print anything if and when the time comes.
P1S
You will regret it otherwise and even after upgrading it later on for more money, you will wonder why you waited.
The benefit of the P1P over the P1S is that you get to build your own skins. The problem with the P1P over the P1S is that you must build your own skins That is of course if you plan on ever printing with hotter filaments and do you really want to limit yourself out of the gate.
As someone who got the P1P a mere three weeks before the P1S was announced, I was pissed and had buyer’s remorse. I wouldn’t trade my pegboard enclosure for the world, but there were a number of features like the auxiliary fan, glass door, glass top, front bezel and rear panel which I had to buy separately. All in all, I paid $599 for the P1P, which was immediately discounted to $499 upon release of the P1S which took on the $599 price. It was clear afterwards that Bambu pulled a stunt where the P1P was only a placeholder product while they got their sheet metal suppliers in line. I had to shell out an additional $200 in parts to add the missing pieces. Even then, I never added in a chamber fan, so add that to my cost if I ever decide to.
The only use-case that I can conceive of a P1P is for a print farm where buying multiple units and placing them in a controlled room makes sense. In that sole case an enclosure doesn’t matter and the cost savings multiplied over many printers makes sense but as @JonRaymond and @MalcTheOracle said…
Thank you all! I was getting the same opinion but wanted some feedback from buyers. I will buy the P1S and just leave the door open, and if I ever want to print ABS I can do so easily.
Thank you again!
This is what I do.
I have one AMS on the top, and one next to it and with PLA, I keep the door open a few inches.
It works a treat.
In general, it is always good to have a closed housing on the printer.
Since you own an Ender 3 Pro and are immersed in a new world, new opportunities will show up which you do not see now:
Even if you don’t think about ABS - ASA is never bad. I rarely need it but this option is never a bad option and when you need it there is rarely a way around it - UV and Temperature resistance.
On the other hand, I really just want one with closed housing, the open ones are simply much more accessible in terms of accessibility. It doesn’t have to do with 100 USD more or less - it’s about my time. Of course, you rarely have to remove the covers. If you make PETG the casing is more annoying than useful. With TPU the case is absolutely unnecessary. But even if you say you don’t want ASA printing, the day is coming. Even if you will may never always print ASA.
So it matters whether you need the printer around the clock or are just an occasional user. If you print a lot, I wouldn’t underestimate the advantages of the X1. They are rarely recognize by YouTubers because they only test printers and the stuff doesn’t run 24/7 - they then only give rough directions and you have to be able to translate their words into your own application. As soon as money is involved and you use it to make sales, the P1S or P1P is quickly off the table (unless you print toys with a low income).
ABS is also a question of price. With your Ender 3 Pro you don’t expect the fillament prices that much, but if you come with Bambulab and and start using a kilo per day per printer, then 15 USD higher fillament prices per day are something that will interests you much more. Well I absolutely do not print ABS parts, but the material cost of my parts is meaningless to my benefit and what they are solving.
In general, Saying something about yourself is never a bad thing. Are you a homeowner and need a printer for your home? Do you have your own motorhome for which the printer is also needed? Do you make toys or technical applications? Do you buy the printer with your pocket money as a teenager for fun or are you an engineer so prototypes are needed befor the CNC milling is starting?
Hi, honestly it’s just to do some toys and stuff like that, nothing professional or to sell, just a hobby. I’m just tired of troubleshooting after troubleshooting and I can never be relaxed when something is printing, that’s the main thing to me. For what I’ve seen the Bambu lab printers are very reliable and I don’t think I need the x1c. Thank you for your feedback!
In order to be honest too, this here is primarily all about you - so that you get the right recommendations.
Yes, it’s terrible to keep track of a 24-36 hour print on an ender…
Ok, I may be a bit wrong person to recommend the most worry-free sleep weekend solution for PETG and TPU - let’s others answer that, may they bring somthing on the table what you didn’t take into account As far as i know P1P and P1S is still without AI but they do hugh jobs in 8 hours were other printers need the whole weekend.
Until I was 60 years old, I always got the cheaper of any two. Didn’t matter what it was, dog, car, truck, woman, golf club Then a month later, I found myself wishing I got the other one. Now, it because a more costly project to find someone to buy the first one, get it out of the way so I can get the second one - the one I should have got in the first place. But what do I know?
Since I turned 40 (a long time ago), I always buy what causes less trouble, which is never the cheapest - you’re absolutely right. But it has also just a little to do with which is more expensive.
Dogs, cars, trucks, golf clubs and so on (so everything that involves fun) - two bring more work than one. Brooms, drills, ballpoint pens and so on (When it comes to work equipment ), they usually cause less trouble than just owning one - The question is never whether it will break, but rather when it will break (if you have enough work for it).
If I just go into my privat basement at home, there are 6 drilling machines - a core drilling machine for concrete walls with drilling up to a diameter of 200mm and 400mm dick walls, an impact drill with 1.2 KJ, one with 5KJ and one with 12KJ (We’ll leave out the 50 Kj demolition hammer since it is not a drill), a cordless drill and a 1000 watt drill with a quick-release chuck. The most expensive one doesn’t do all the tasks, in fact none of them do the job of the others drill - the only thing that’s expensive is getting the wrong drilling machine for the wrong job. Since when the small drilling machine does a big job, the drilling machine breaks down. When the big drilling machine does a small job, the workpiece breaks down. So you will spend hours on the job that can be done in minutes or you waste too much time maintaining the drills. Of course, you still need experience as to which drill you choose exactly for which task - e.g. my wife still confuses the impact wrench (we didn’t count that above) with the cordless drill… And why do I own an impact wrench even at home, since a cordless drill can also do this job at home as well? A cordless impact wrenches rarely break and if I were to do this work with the cordless electric drill, I would buy a new cordless electric drill every 6 months.
So the question is never what it costs, but rather what it can do and what you need and if there is hardly any work for the tool, take the one that can do the most and live with the disadvantages of the expensive device. As soon as the machine becomes even remotely important, you always will need an alternative because nothing lasts forever and it always breaks when you need it most - then you use it the most and the material breaks under the highest load. Of course it breaks exactly when you need it the most, because then you use it the most and the material always breaks under the highest load what it wasn’t built for…
Can bambu labs help out me and my teams shop on esty with a p1p or a p1s
Sorry to tell you but Bambu isn’t going to send you a free printer unless you are a big youtuber.
Ok sorry for bugging you.
I also read that you guys send test filament if you sigh up for it is that correct?
I am not a Bambu employee, but just know that the test filament is not sent to everyone who signs up for it. It just means you have a chance to maybe receive and test new filaments, but I have never heard of anyone ever receiving it.
Just buy not a bambu, or in one day you will achieve random clogs without any way to resolve this sh*t.
Any 3d printer can get a clog, nothing Bambu specific
Ok. So tell me what should I do in my case. I’ve printed with my p1s 660 hours. Used only original PLA basic filament. But one day it starts constantly clogging in the middle of the print. I have the same environment with temp and humidity.
Changed ptfe tube, extruder, hotend, extruder motor, recalibrate all the things, latest firmware, tried new bambu filament, tried to dry filament etc. There is several topics in this forum with this issue and anyone could help us. People get advices with basic stuff that described on wiki, but anything of that is working.
That’s so bizarre so I can’t fix this machine, despite that that’s my 5-th printer and I had experience to develop and build printers myself from scratch. So there are small community of users with useless machines and no one could understand what happened.